Alternative projects, inventions, experiments and DIY projects
Posted by lasersaber on Jun 28, 2013 in Joule Ringer | 16 comments
Forum topic: http://laserhacker.com/forum/index.php?topic=70.0
Have you tried connecting the pipe deep in ground to the negative power source and the antennae to the positive power source.This might give you the extra power to run this circuit indefinitely.
I have done some tests like that but not at a very large scale. I plan on testing with a higher antenna once I get a good lightning antenna protection system in place. The results so far have shown some small amounts of useful electricity.
!st I love your brain..and website.
2nd, Is there really anything short of military grade EMP gear that will protect an antenna from direct lightening strikes?
I did not think anything would, as a ham radio operator I use Polyphaser lightening protectors on my coax, but that is just a 1/8″ gas gap.
As a volunteer Skywarn Net Controller, I am on the air during severe weather.
My polyphasers are connected to 8ft solid copper ground rods 3 ft outside the house where the coax enters.
I’m always trying to keep my radio’s intact due to a low disability income,I try to do anything that might help needing to replace a VHF radio. Any hardening ideas would be greatly appreciated.
BTW, I disconnect the coax when off the air.
Maybe a suggestion for the lightning protection might be a spark gap to a bigger earth grounding with thicker wire or copper pipe to deviate the path of the high voltage, high amperage.
Cheaper that a normal lightning protection system…
Great work, inspiring…
You need http://www.solar-electric.com/suprde.html
Midnite Solar Surge Protection Devices:
Three voltages made 150,300,600
You have less than 150 volts? use 150 volt ones.
I was excited when saw SOLN1 because of the joul ringer . I am curious about whether you decided to not use it in solar panel. New to solar power here, as well as most electrical science.Love the free energy ideas on Internet. Good luck. I watch you all the time.
Great work, I’ve been following your work and im glad to see your adding a spark gap and a ground, I think this will have interesting results as it seems your edging closer to replicating the kapanadze SR193 circuit good luck!
I’d like to find out more? I’d want to find out some additional information.
Try using a low current 50hz osc circuit close to or wound on the ferrite, and try experimenting on tapping the transformer to feed back to the joule circuit and increase your earth/ground i.e use flat plate with large CSA not a small pipe, just some ideas I had after seeing how far you have got with the cross-over joule circuit. Good luck
Tesla did a circuit that took energy from the sun. He said the sun is a million volts. Try to mod your circuit to his.
So the final output depends on the input voltage. Can you run other devices on this? What is the cycle rate (hz)? Thanks
Well using an 8ft 3/4″ solid copper ground rod at the base of the antennaa well as braided braid. I lay the coax on the ground with a loop in hopes lightening will take the shortest path to ground bypassing my radio shack and the polyphaser is where the coax enters the house is connected to the 2nd ground rod via braided braid braid.
Non the less, I unplug all my coax and a/c power if not in use, if on the air is sever weather I will use battery power instead of a/c and not touch the mic when transmitting. Like they say, lightening kill’s and that I have seen up close and personal on more than one occasion.
thanks for the suggestion, spark gap tx’ers go back to the first radio’s used by ham’s and the military.
How about running a Joule ringer LED on a Earth battery, has anyone tried it yet. Could possibly make a nice outdoors light.
Rob Y I am also a ham operator and I see a fatal flaw in your grounding system. Do not use braid for your connections. You want to use 2″ copper strip for your ground connections because lightning has so much potential it will vaporize your braid rather than going to ground. Electricity travels on the surface of metals and braid does not present a solid surface but rather a resistive surface that will heat and vaporize. Also you do not need solid copper ground rods because of this. The heavy plated ground rods work just as well and are cheaper.
Please check out the circuit diagram on my site as it has a 300% reduction in power use aka 12v @ 18mA in 20 volts @ 20mA out. It drive the bi-filler coil and causes an equal current in verses current out irregardless of output voltage.
please can make a video on the ferrite rod winding…. the detail type of wire bulb watts and how long the procedure will last for 12 bulbs as you did in your experiment.. my email: email@example.com
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