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How to Build Crystal Power Cells – Long Duration Power

How to Build Crystal Power Cells – Long Duration Power

The complete build process for crystal power cells. 

Needed Items:

Solid magnesium rod.  Aluminum can also be used but will give a lower voltage.
Copper pipe cap.

Equal Parts of the following:
Potassium chloride - commonly known as salt substitute.
Hydrated potassium aluminium sulfate - commonly known as alum.
Sodium tetraborate - commonly known as 20 mule team Borax.
Magnesium sulfate - commonly known as epsom salt.

Reliance 9001829005 32-Inch Magnesium Water Heater Anode Rod

Price: $27.49


Great prices on magnesium here:

Galvanic Chart:

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  1. Can copper or aluminum also be used for an anode?

    • Disregard my anode question – I read your galvanic chart and will now do some looking. I see why you do not use aluminum and copper if indeed corrosion potential is a factor with the salts.

  2. Have you tried a wider difference in your Noble and Less Noble Cathode and Anode spread? As using stainless, nickel or titanium for the cathode? I don’t know where you’d get the titanium but the steel and nickel might be easy to find?

    • Amazon and ebay sometimes has titanium.

  3. Have you tried to do this on a larger scale to power an appliance for a house for instance?

    Great video!!

  4. What size are the copper caps? Also did you just drill a whole into the Magnesium and screw the bolt in or did you glue it in? What length is the bolt and whats the significance of the nut in the middle? Thank you for the informative video!

    • I first drilled and then screwed the bolt into the rod. The nut lets you screw up and secure a wire for a long term connection.

      • can i use borax detergent booster

      • Can I power a refrigerator with this

  5. It would be much easy to have the list of ingredients in a text format as here in Brazil it is hard to find the equivalents… and it is hard to me to figure out just watching the video in English.


    And, as usual, superb work !!

  6. Cell was made with equal parts of Borax – Epsom Salt — Alum – Salt Substitute.

  7. Thomas,

    Equal parts of the following:

    Epsom Salt
    No Salt (brand of Potassium Chloride)

    Just search for clarification/description of these ingredients.

    Brian, Good point about the anode/cathode spread. If you see lasersaber’s youtube videos about the air batteries- very simple; magnesium tape, solid carbon rod and paper towel as an separator. Simple and brilliant!

  8. It would be much better to know the composition written at the package of each component. For instance, what is “Alum” and “Salt Substitute” ? For many people “Salt Substitute” is glutamate monosodic…

    • Done.

    • Alum is commonly used in pickle making….can also be found it crystal deodorant rock, or styptic pencils!

  9. Laser hacker. You are the best inventor as far as experimenting with electricity is concerned, however it will be excellent if you can couple your videos with explicit texts that explain the ingredients and the process in a layman language. Like in this video, apart from the white mixture, the container is made up with what?

    • I am definitely not the best. I just love making stuff and I keep learning more all the time. Time permitting, I will try to do a better job with the text documentation in the future.

      • I have been trying to make these for some time now and they don’t even make .5 volts. I have the mix right I have all the ingredients. What am i doing wrong?

  10. MANY THANKS for this great material and all your Perhaps this tech could be applied in a larger scale with multiple cells. I hope to be part of that research. Motor on LS

  11. LaserSaber, what is the diameter of your Magnesium Rod used in this video, and what is the length and diameter of the copper cap?

  12. It looks like you are using a 2″ copper cap. And a 1 inch magnesium core. Producing approximately 1.41 volts. Could a person make C or D size batteries by capping both ends? And make the proper connections just like on regular batteries? Or is there a reason for not doing so? Also what if I were to make one that is from say a four inch x twelve inch copper pipe? Any idea how much power would be generated? Or is it a one for two ratio on the size? Like your demonstration. Two inch cape and 1 inch rode. Thanks

    • Dean, It doesn’t much matter what the size of the copper is, since it is the galvanic principle that determines the voltage differential. Size does matter in the way of the capacity or runtime of the cell–ability to take a heavier “load”. Only when you put the cells in series, will your voltage go up.

  13. It would be cool to be able to build a power source for people to heat there houses in the winter so there not at the mercy of the power companies. I love this idea. Can’t wait to see more of your experiments!! Keep up the good work:.)

  14. Thank you very much Lasersaber, after going through 10 hours of various cell info from others, I find this the most useful and clear. I’ve been researching ion exchange in galvanic cells, p-n junctions to see what’s going on., from the battery research it seems the ions in the battery acid fail to support and provide electron swaps with the ions of the negative terminal, thus positive and negative ions build up and the battery goes flat. As the crystal cell design have crystals that are piezoelectric I suspect they provide the electron short fall that the battery suffers from. They get the spare energy from radio waves and stuff. By providing a small amount of power the battery can continue to use the resources of the magnesium pole to generate the higher voltage with out going flat.

  15. Where can I buy this?

  16. S Meter
    In some blog within there was a request about an ammeter that measures very small currents – – – I just found out that would be what HAM radio guys use – It is called an S-Meter (a microammeter).



    • Sorry – The notes below about replies said it would accept some HTML. I cut-n-pasted from the list and edited but my link did not show for ‘S Meter’ at Wikipedia.

      • OK – WEB Browser and this discussion reply setup is not working today. It cancelled my first reply about micro-ammeters to answer a request somewhere within LaserHacker’s blogs.

        I found out today that an S Meter used by HAM radio guys is actually a microammeter and can measure very small currents. This was requested within this group of blogs somewhere. See the link in my moments before posting trying to include a link which had been stripped from the now deleted first posting.

  17. That wood disc glued at the bottom of the Mg rod is mandatory. Correct ?
    It is not just to prevent floating of the Mg piece, as said in the video.
    Without that electric insulation the cell will be at permanent short circuit…

    Could this be related ?

  18. Laser Hacker,

    Can you explain how you put the rod in the magnesium. Is this a regular bolt? Was it screwed into a hole you made in the magnesium? etc.

    Also, could this type of invention light a 75 watt lightbulb? I am thinking of how I can make this functional in my life.

    Thanks, for all your doing to share such coveted knowledge to us regular joes!


  19. Dude, this is great. Ive been looking for this kind of info for a long time. Now that I am aware of the ingredients and if I can get them in Sweden- I will share my findings.

    /Fellow developer Intrepidus

  20. I cannot get the powder mixture to melt. I am using heat gun and element on stove. I was wondering if I can add a few drops of water to powder and make a paste? I will attempt this later.
    The Salt substitute does have other ingredients… Maybe listing them in the ingredients list would be helpful for people in the countries.

  21. Is it important that you use copper for the outside, would another conductive material work as well. Copper being expensive and all. I could machine many aluminum casings for much less than a couple copper caps. Just wanted to see if anyone has tried before I do.

  22. I really need help! I can find all materials expect alum. I dont think it is called alum in my country, I am not sure if it is sell in my country. So can I use something else instead of alum. PLZZZZ HELP ???????

    • Google first then beg.

      From Google:
      What is Alum?

      What is alum?

      Been reading labels again, have you?

      Alum is a salt that in chemistry is a combination of an alkali metal, such as sodium, potassium, or ammonium and a trivalent metal, such as aluminum, iron, or chromium. The most common form, potassium aluminum sulfate, or potash alum, is one form that has been used in food processing. Another, sodium aluminum sulfate, is an ingredient in commercially produced baking powder. (Have you never noticed the faint metallic taste in baking powder? It comes from the alum.)

      The potassium-based alum has been used to produce crisp cucumber and watermelon-rind pickles as well as maraschino cherries, where the aluminum ions strengthen the fruits’ cell-wall pectins.

      Alum is approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration as a food additive, but in large quantities — well, an ounce or more — it is toxic to humans. As a result, efforts have been made and are being made to wean us of our alum dependency. The U.S. Department of Agriculture says that if good quality produce and modern canning methods are employed, there is no need to use alum to bolster the crispness of our pickles and cherries. In any event, the department says, even if alum is used to soak the pickles, it should not be used in the final pickling liquid.


      What is a Styptic Pencil?

      Aluminum Sulfate (56 percent)

      Aluminum sulfate is one of the primary ingredients in the styptic pencil, which you will rub directly on your cut in order to stop it from bleeding. Aluminum sulfate is colorless and odorless in appearance, but it is a powerful agent that is also a key ingredient of sulfuric acid. Because it is employed at a 56 percent potency in the styptic pencil, the user does not have to worry about burning the skin. Aluminum sulfate is a vasoconstrictor that will restrict the flow of blood in the area where it is applied.

      Read more:

  23. You really should use Google, Yahoo or another search engine. It will help. Here is what I found for you –

    What is Alum?

    Alum is a salt that in chemistry is a combination of an alkali metal, such as sodium, potassium, or ammonium and a trivalent metal, such as aluminum, iron, or chromium. The most common form, potassium aluminum sulfate, or potash alum, is one form that has been used in food processing. Another, sodium aluminum sulfate, is an ingredient in commercially produced baking powder. (Have you never noticed the faint metallic taste in baking powder? It comes from the alum.)

    The potassium-based alum has been used to produce crisp cucumber and watermelon-rind pickles as well as maraschino cherries, where the aluminum ions strengthen the fruits’ cell-wall pectins.

    Alum is approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration as a food additive, but in large quantities — well, an ounce or more — it is toxic to humans. As a result, efforts have been made and are being made to wean us of our alum dependency. The U.S. Department of Agriculture says that if good quality produce and modern canning methods are employed, there is no need to use alum to bolster the crispness of our pickles and cherries. In any event, the department says, even if alum is used to soak the pickles, it should not be used in the final pickling liquid.

    What is Styptic Pencil? (ALUM)

    Aluminum Sulfate (56 percent)

    Aluminum sulfate is one of the primary ingredients in the styptic pencil, which you will rub directly on your cut in order to stop it from bleeding. Aluminum sulfate is colorless and odorless in appearance, but it is a powerful agent that is also a key ingredient of sulfuric acid. Because it is employed at a 56 percent potency in the styptic pencil, the user does not have to worry about burning the skin. Aluminum sulfate is a vasoconstrictor that will restrict the flow of blood in the area where it is applied.

    Read more:

  24. Thanks for quick response.And I found that alum is stipsa in my country, thx again.

  25. Can someone explain Galvanic Chart. I see volts DC but I dont get + and – and anodic and cathodic ?????

  26. Hey again guys, I still have not been able to get my 4 part mix to liquify.

    I notice that if I put Alum or Epsom salt over heat they melt. So I tried to add a little more of each to mix. But the mix still stays in powder form. I tried to add some water at the end for fun, the mixture clumps up but does not liquify and bubble like in the video.

    When I ground the alum in the grinder, it got pretty warm. I wonder if this changed it in some way. I will keep trying….

  27. how long your cell will last for powering 1 watt led

  28. So do we want the outer material to be lower on the galvanic scale then? Or should I machine the inner and outer out of magnesium. Or do the outer with graphite.

  29. I have watched a number of DIY crystal battery videos. This was excellent. My questions are:
    1. Is the Epsom salt required? One version does not use it.

    2. Does the Cu and Mg surface area matter? One DIY video shows only Cu and Mg strips that cost much less than the Cu pipe and Mg rod. It would also allow for many smaller batteries. The other video had nearly the same voltage. Perhaps there was a different current.

  30. hi, lasersaber., I’ve built a couple of the crystal cells experimentally trying didfferent things and find the tube design the best, i’ve just had delivered enough magnesium to make 30 cells, so will see how that goes., I have had a few people wanting to buy some of the cells I’ve made because they are so fasinated by them., I want to sell them with instructions on their constituents so they can build them.. this being said I have no Idea who the true inventor is, so I call myself the builder and encourage others to build them and sell them.. Do you think is OK as I have no idea about copy rights.

  31. Salts are ionic, So what if you just metled some sodium cloride with aluminum or magnesium sulfate and poured it over a ion conductor using copper and zinx electrodes or aluminum and some other metal? RbAg4I5 is and example of an ion conductor.

  32. Sorry if the spelling is bad. I just want to ammend an idea to potash contains some postaium hydroxide and magnesium sulfate mixed and tapped down between copper and magnesium add a little SiO2 or Zirconium oxide or some RbAg4I5 for a solid state cell. I think the crystal cell works using sulfates for some reason aluminum sulfate may be similar to magnesium sulfate in a cell. I also think pot ash from burnt wood could be your source of potassium but never tested these solid state ionic cells.

  33. Try mixing up you crystal battery ingreadients in a concentrated solution of distilled water and using that to fill up a new dry car battery that has never had acid in it. It might be a short cut and all you have to do is let it dry out and you may get .2 volts or more per cell and maybe resonable amperage due to the size of plates. Wet you might go to 2-3 volts but expect the potassium chloride to drain the charge so I would use potssium sulfate instead maybe. So far I have only done some partial experimenting with lead and aluminum.

  34. I see you use Salts for the electrolyte, have you torn down the cell after a period of use to see how the magnesium is affected? I tried a magnesium copper cell, using ribbon magnesium, added sodium chloride and the magnesium was consumed from use. (salt seemed to just speed up the magnesium dissociation, so more current in less time versus non-salting the interface.)

    Was there a reason you settled on that mixture for the electrolyte? I like the use of potassium considering how the old nickel iron batteries worked without consuming their electrodes. (versus the acid based batteries which all did consume one or the other of the electrodes.)

    Good work man, keep it up!

  35. Can you tell me how long your copper tube design is now. It looks to be around 2 inches long? I like you website and your ideas. Just getting into this stuff and working on ideas myself.

  36. It seems the key to these cells is the rate of re-charge they give when drained off a bit, do they recharge? If so what is their rate of recovery.. This is quite important i think. Because my cells seem to take a short and recover does not mean they recharge from the short, I believe they crystals have a memory of charge that is gained (imprinted) when they are first made.

  37. The Markus reid cell from Rex research uses sodium metasilicate. The cells work better with a dry construction it seems as the above cell seem to put out a good constant voltage. But crystal cell seem to work better when pulsed so the joul ringer circuit might be best for charging capacitors?

  38. I built a couple using your recipe, and can only get 6 milliamps. What an I doing wrong? The voltage is about 1.3 or 1.4 volts. Adding them in series makes double the voltage as expected; but parallel does not increase past the 6 milliamps.

  39. Very well done great presentations again thanks

  40. Where are you buying motors that can run on milliamps? After building a bunch and experimenting with different (cheaper) materials and shapes during the double-digit weather, my cells deliver 2-12 times the amperage when placed on a radiator. Heat shows no effect on voltages. Still, it seems b=my choices are voltage or amperage, but never enough.

  41. Followed your instructions and my cells work great. Lots of fun to experiment with. Thanks. Strange how they seem to be cooler then room temp?

  42. Is your cell rechargeable?

  43. Does it have to be specifically Potassium Chloride? What if we use regular table salt? Would that work as well?

  44. is there any other way to make this without Hydrated potassium aluminium sulfate and Sodium tetraborate some sort of alternative because i live in ireland and that stuff is illegal here im pretty sure

  45. Would a Magnesium Fire Starter block work? Maybe cutting them into smaller square bars.. Would the shape matter? Are these fire starters low in magnesium content?


  46. The first one is alum, which is used in making pickles. And also in the leather making process. Maybe its called something different there?
    The second one is a laundry detergent sold in the USA with the trade name “20 mule team borax.” Alum is a lot cheaper from Amazon than from grocery stores. My irish co-workers have retired, so i cant ask them.

  47. Please post an updated on volts and amps when you get a chance. Thanks!

  48. I need some help and I’m hoping someone can get back to me quickly. My daughter wanted to build this for her science project. We’ve completed the build and getting just under 1.4v per battery. We are trying to power a 1.5v motor. When we connect the battery to the motor, the volts drop to zero and the motor doesn’t go. A AAA battery at 1.39v will run the motor. Any ideas why the voltage drops? I’ve run 2 batteries in series same thing. Solo battery does same thing.

  49. some of my cells had voltage but little amps, when i put them under load i noticed the volts drop away because there were too little amps in the cell. The amps are to some degree charged at the point of making the crystal cell, i had a bubbling and such where the paste was reacting to the copper and magnesium. Weaker cells were because the magnesium was poor or the gap made up of paste was to thin or to wide.. I have managed to pulse the good cells and recharge them.

  50. Thanks for the response Pat. I’m using a 1.25″ copper pipe cap and the magnesium anode rod listed above. Maybe there is too much gap? I’m getting an amp reading of 2.0 the after I hook up the motor it drops to .03 and no joy.

  51. I built several with 1.5 and 2 inch copper pipe caps. Seems to make no difference. The only thing I’ve noticed is the longer the tube, the higher the amperage (although very slight). I have no trouble getting additive voltage; amperage is a no-go so far. The only thing I’ve been able t o power is a 1.9 volt, 20 milliamp green LED. And even then, it sometimes quits.

  52. yes ! Please, it would be much easier if one could use those fire starters as Mg source… Here whee i live it is the only kind of Mg metallic available.

  53. these cells do recharge on their own but I add distilled water to them. just a few drops will do they need the water to pass ions! only distilled water. tap water will destroy them!!! could use rain water. I use a bedini earth light oscillator to run an led all night for night light. my wife and I love them have 4 that have been running for 4 months now. I do switch them off in the day and they recharge.

  54. I don’t recommend the fire starters unless you know it is pure. I tried some from china and they destroyed themselves in a week!

  55. all of my cells run close to 1.35v and 200ma when wet but dry they wont go over 5ma. just add few drops of distilled water only and the cell should run a low amp draw motor. whats cool is let them dry out put them up for few weeks and when you need them add distilled water and there back. who knows what a dry ones shelf life is. could be over 4 years?

  56. @ Mitch.. Thanks for sharing! It’s great to hear detailed feedback. Did you use the cooking method or the stamping/compressing method?

    I’m having success with a 1″ copper pipe with an old water heater anode rod.. Stamping method.. Over 1v.. It will light a garden light and power a solar toy! I’m stoked! It will not power a small 2 volt motor.

    I can’t add water to it because i sealed the ends with 5 minute epoxy.

  57. I really want to make a good night light like you mentioned.. Can you recommend any good basic proven instructions? or Tips? or Links? Thanks 🙂 [haungo(at)gmail]

  58. What is the setup that you have constructed to store the electricity in the video showing the new method to build the crystal cells. My goal is to utilize the cells to power a light in shed. Similar thought to the chicken coop. The cells are connected to the ultra capacitor boost pack. (Described in your boost pack section.) What is after the boost pack?

    Is that some type of transformer to step up or step down the power?
    More detail would be greatly appreciated.

  59. Thank you, your site is very complete. I just found the video with the details for the super joule that is being utilize.

  60. my best cells use 1″3/4 inch copper end caps heat treated red hot then let to cool and dipped in borax after each heating for 3 times. you should sand and solder a spot at this time if connecting a wire to it. I also use mag anodes from hot water heaters cut then drilled and taped for screw also hot glue other end of mag to set in bottom of cap so wont short out. I also clean the mag washing it in dish soap to remove any oils. slowly heat your salts at low temp in the end cap best not boil it! and it takes time adding small amounts as it melts. I had to stir constantly until almost 3/4 full. I keep the mag close to the heat but not on it to get its temp up. slowly insert the mag and twist back and forth until its in and centered. turn off heat and with pliers move cell over to a plate with water in it an set cell in water to cool. at this point mag should be in center of cap and it should not be touched for 45 min.

  61. as for the light I use small single white led pulled from a damaged led flood bulb but old solar yard light led will work. the circuit was given to use by John Bedini it is similar to a solar yard light circuit but much better! you have to wind a coil of 2 wires same size twisted together with 45 turns I use 30 gage enamel coated wire. could reclaim from transformer that plugs into wall if wire can be removed without damage. I use 2″ pvc pipe for housing. I take 2- 4 inch sections and cut one long ways then slowly heat it up on stove get some gloves it gets hot keep it moveing don’t let sit over heat or it will burn! it will get flimsy I then flatten it between tile or metal, wood what ever I have on hand point is to get it flat when it cools it will stay that way use a hole saw or jigsaw to make top and bottom round ends to fit inside second pipe the lamp. I use hot glue to secure the circuit and coil to the top round with led in a hole so it sticks out the middle the second round is to hold cell in bottom. I drill two holes in side of lamp one for a switch another for watering hole. I paint the lamp black and put aluminum tape on top for reflector. the circuit can be found if you google john bedini earth lights. there is a lot of post but a lot of good info as well. hope this helps good luck. thanks lasersaber for the cell its a great one!!!!

  62. As I was trying to heat up the materials for the crystal battery, I found that I had no way of telling how long they are to be cooking.

    I am using a powder-coat paint oven for this project and if anyone be so kind enough to give me a hind on how long it must be before the materials melt, I will be joyed to hear such a thing.

  63. I did try to create a crystal battery using a copper cap and the contents spilled out as you said. I didn’t touch the materials because turning that solid-powder material into a liquid state is very hot. ~200 degrees hot.

    By using this data, I’ll let everyone know that at 200 degrees Fahrenheit, the bottom of the materials will melt and bubble at ~30 minutes. I used a powder-coat oven to do this job.

  64. I had to keep moving it around with a stick constantly while adding small amounts at a time. the water that’s locked up in the salts will start to come out turning it all to a liquid state then I add some more of the mix to desired amount for mag anode to be placed without over flow. little tricky!

  65. Completed 2 cells with 1/2 inch copper caps and Mg ribbon from Gallium Metal store.
    Output was 1.3v and .01mA after 1 week
    Using only the mixture 1 week old cold pressed into cap no heat applied (no melting) on another test battery the voltage was 1.5v and 10-15mA. The mixture was damp from humidity in the air.

    Reduction in size of the battery appears at this time to have little if any affect on the voltage or amperage as stated by others. Moisture content of mixture does have same effect as listed by others.

    Additional note: damp cell shows signs of corrosion on cap within 12hrs of making, where mixture is not covering the copper or Mg.

    Conclusion this battery can be made smaller and still have same properties. Might be able to use the Mg ribbon, dipped into the molten mixture with copper plating applied to outside of crystalized mixture.

    More questions to be answered? John Hutchinson used high voltage to polarize the molten mixture. Does that have a significant change on voltage or current?

    Thank everyone for the post and keep testing.

  66. I noticed on your recent video where you revisited these that the pipes had split on the seam, slowly or all at once isn’t clear but you proposed a question that has bugged me for days. Is the current or voltage pressure related or is it simply due to the surface area, I suspect it is just the surface area. I devised this test to test the theory. I took 3″ fire starters and cut them in half 1.5″ each, then flattened out 1/2″ copper pipes cut to 1.5 inches as well. then I made a crystal sandwich and put it all in a clamp. The whole thing was very messy as you may have guessed however the results were worth finding. The cells can be shorted just by having the crystals touch between the plates. Also the pressure did not increase voltage. If anything I found that the more Crystal I squashed out of between the plates the less voltage I had. I think there may be a way to force the crystal to stay in between the plates as it is crushed. It also would be awesome to do the same test in a pressure vessel and vacuum chamber as well to see if and how it affects the voltage & amperage. I would love someone to duplicate my experiment even if it’s in a different way and share the results.

  67. Great job, Thnx. Just a stupod ?. Which side would be clasified as positife or negative – copper or other?

  68. LaserSaber, is there a use case for the crystal cells to run a small generator that could be hooked up to a 12V Battery Bank and trickel charge the bank for reserve power like a solar backup battery bank?

  69. Have you made one of these using magnesium and titaniam?

  70. I reproduced your power cells only I used 1″ caps. I have a series of 5 running 3 LED’s, it is putting out a total of just under 7 volts, but not enough amperage to run a 1.5v dc motor, how do i increase the amperage? larger caps?

  71. Great work , everyone.
    Love your projects.
    Now; I need advice.
    I would love to implement your knowledge at the place I live.
    I live in a country named El Slavator, in Central America.
    now industrialization here goes as far as beans and bananas, so getting my hands on a piece of magnesium will be difficult.
    GOD ! i was not able to find copper sheets at the biggest hardware store in the country.
    So let me know where I can get some solid magnesium from.
    Thank you

  72. Great post , but we are trying to build power cells.
    You should direct your comments to a medical site.

  73. Hi all, Great project which I’m in process of ordering parts to replicate. While reading up on crystal batteries i seen somewhere that sunlight could have an affect on the output off crystals, has anyone given this ago ? Also has anyone tried polarising the mixture using a high voltage ?

  74. How does this work, and is there any way to prevent corrosion on the copper? I built one and after one week Its already corrosion build up on the edges, great video though.

  75. Have you tried to series two to three sets of these batteries to boost the volts and then parallel the sets to boot the amps. Then run it through a joule ringer and see what kind of result you get?

  76. Net Reaction and half reaction? my daughter needs this info for a chemistry project … just found that out. We built 30 of these with 1 inch copper pipe – 5/8 mag 99% mag stick and the mix of
    Epsom Salt
    No Salt (brand of Potassium Chloride)
    The batteries are doing great – capped with silicon and sealed with hot glue. The SS screw is the neg end and the positive end is a the coiled end of a 14g copper wire wrapped and taped around the copper pipe. Each unit seems to be holding a 1.3-1.5 volt charge, heated they run up to about 1.58.
    Super cool experiment – I tested a smaller one hydrated with lime juice, and it shot up to 1.7 volts, but the copper ox rate was very fast.
    Anyway – we have been unable to find any info on the net or half reaction, and her teacher has never seen this kind of battery before and was unable to understand what the reactions are.

    Great project – had a blast doing it and looking forward to a few variations – I am thinking a mason jar with a few mag sticks a few cups of chem mix and a copper plate resting on top, then capped with cheese cloth … add distilled water and turn upside down to let it drain/dry… let you know how it turns out.

  77. Im a bit stumped….I built enough cells that I am producing just under 20v, and I cannot get a simple 1.5v dc motor to turn. Is the amperage so low that it cannot even turn this small motor?

  78. i am curius about the battery in a battery made using the caps like you were playing with and some made with the battery shaped configurations. what is the avradge power output and will the power output increes with the crystal formation inside such as with the cap. i also had a idea though it would take a bit of work to get right but rather then leeving the top open what if you put a pvc cap or flat tube end over it with a single hole drilled in it to alow the other pole to be acsessable as well as to keep the magnezium rod in place.

  79. I agree with the other guy ,but instead of PVC it should be copper cap with hole in the center, but have rubber washer for spacing in between the magnesium negative and the positive copper. Then
    Use high strength expoxy or resin to keep the copper caps from separating . What do you think?

  80. you would have to link the two sections of copper though that was a nother good idea maby fill it with the base mixture though not sure how to make it crystalize.

  81. I’d love to see something built to power larger-scale objects. We wouldn’t need to buy consumer-grade batteries anymore and deal with recharging again! This would be the end of electronic waste and make for a huge step in the green future.

  82. Please is there someone out there that is using the crystal batteries to light their RV or home. Out of the 100 or so videos I have watched NOT one video has showed them doing anything other then lighting a few l.e.d or a fan.

    I am 65 disabled from esophageal cancer and two brain aneurysms and have chose to live off grid. Limited on income I turned to YouTube for answers to the high cost of living off grid. So far NOT one inventor has shown anything more the more videos that lead to more videos and lots of commits but NOT one video showing a happy inventor using their inventions to live on.

    PLEASE! Is there someone that would be kind enough to email me ( how they are using one of these inventors to better their lives.

    I want to power my generator on 100% HHO fuel. Is there a video or a person that is doing this. I s a lot of videos that say it can be done but not one that shows the end plan HOW TO.

    In the next 6 months I want to not only be off the grid but the money grid. If this is possible just think of all we could do to help others that need or want to live a more pour lifestyle. Laird

  83. Not one answer to my post. Please someone can you answer me this one question? Is there anyone out there that has a working battery system using crystals to power even a small RV? Video after video with not one person that is using LED lights/crystal to power their home for more then a few days. As bright as these people are I haven’t found one that is living off grid and using their invention to better their lives. I hope I can get just one of you wonderful inventors to prove me wrong. Laird

  84. I doubt anyone’s being rude or ignoring you. Since I have a history of being the kid who verbally noted that the “emperor has no clothes on”..I’ll be a brazen hussy and say it wont work. This battery gets voltage but no current. My windowsill is filled with crystal battery failures. Likewise- sticking copper and metal plates in the dirt also gets voltage but no current to speak of. I suppose it COULD work, but would take thousands of dollars of supplies to build one that gives the same power an AA battery would.
    If I’m not kicked off this board now, I’ll let you know if I am successful at another endeavor which I think will work better. Just waiting for supplies and a day of.

  85. Life off Grid
    Thank you all for your response. Esophageal cancer and five operations hasn’t stopped me. Two brains aneurysms hasn’t defeated me nor has Parkinson disease which is the worst of them all keep me from living out my dream.

    Someone out there must have the answer to all this. I moved to the mountains to live out my life and to do it as close to mother earth as possible. Living off grid is not simple nor easy. I have not enjoyed my life more now then when I am now. Living with all the worldly essentials didn’t make my life better. To tell you the truth I feel better know then a year ago with all my doctors and their medicine.

    I have two goals to accomplish before winter comes this year. 1) to use a HHO fuel cell to run my generator ( any generator) so I can charge my main batteries. That would give me free power to live on throughout the winter.

    2) To light my home using crystal batteries would mean I have lights to power my home without having to spend what little I have to live on monthly. Do you realize how many people we could help? Hydrogen fuel to drive our vehicles and power to generate electricity. What would this mean for third world countries? LED lights to help a little child see in the night.

    Will anyone help me? It sounds so simple! I am up for the challenge.


  86. i have been wanting to build my self a crystal cell battery as well and experiment with it to see how useful it is though as of yet i haven’t been able to afford any of the materials to build it with. i have been wondering how small some one could make a crystal battery if it can be shrunk down to the size of a pencil or smaller if it can be don i could use a joul ringer to pull more power from it to charge a cap or if it can sustain the output charge a cell phone or a usb charged device.

  87. Joel, Just to clarify for me. Are you saying that if I use a smaller copper cap, say .5″ and a smaller magnesium rod, will I still get the same voltage as one with a 2″ cap with the mag rod?

  88. Please check this link and let me know if this could be done too…?

  89. All the tech info regarding these type of cells can be found by watching all of John Bendinis YouTube videos. He is one of the free energy community leaders.

  90. I have no problem getting a cd drive motor from an old cd radio. My vids are BackRoomLabs on YouTube .

  91. I have a few vids on YouTube showing some cells of lasersabers design lighting my bedroom. My channel is BackRoomLabs

  92. I have a few vids posted showing lasersabers design lighting up my bedroom. Search BackRoomLabs. On YouTube

  93. I made two of these. Smaller but still getting out voltage. 1.4 voltage on one and 1 V on the other. I connected them in series to amp up the voltage. Connected to the 1.5 V to 3 V DC motor and motor isn’t running. I tested the motor against a AA battery and the motor was fine. I tried just one cell like video and motor still inst running. Any suggestions??!!!

  94. Having built lots of earth batteries years ago, (carbon zinc) and then salt batteries, (carbon magnesium), I’ve learned a few things. Usable voltage is easy to obtain. Usable current is a different matter. It has to do with internal cell resistance. Salt mixtures typically don’t afford high enough conductance to allow current to flow. Adding water is the easiest way to remedy this. This leads to corrosion issues with the cathode material though. I always use carbon rods for anodes. No corrosion issues and affords the best + voltage difference. You can obtain copper clad carbon rods from welding supply shops. I just peel off the cladding, or not! I’ve also developed simple mini inverters that produce usable voltages with minimal voltage powering them, (down to 1/2 volt! They are of the traditional multivibrator design and highly reliant on the right transformer. Usually ones salvaged from wall worts and have a center tap on the secondary. So far, they produce enough to power transistor radios quite well. I use full wave germanium diodes on the output along with a small filter cap to make them, more actually, voltage “converters”.

  95. You’ve hit the nail on the head Roberta…they produce volts but little amps so I call foul on this ‘crystal battery’ …following the instructions (using the dry ram method) I produced a battery that drove a LED via a JT for 2 weeks but then the amps dropped off to a point where it stopped working…internal resistance went up too…seeing many comments on the net about similar results…I’m guessing the live web cam fails to show an alternate power source

  96. I recently posted a comment detailing my experiences with earth and salt batteries. I noticed it wasn’t approved and went away. Was it because I did not follow the process in time or something else?

  97. Well, I have built one of these last night. My version uses nothing but epsom salt, much like Mr Bedini, but mostly because other ingredients I still need to order online (borax etc.). I was able to get 1.46 Volts and only 6.2 mA and dropping. My solution did have water added to it as without the water I got no mA’s at all. I am also using a somewhat smaller piece of magnesium (half of yours). This morning I took the magnesium out and noticed that it has eroded quite a bit. So… I have to say I am a bit disappointed to confirm, at least as of now, that the electricity generated appears to be from normal corrosive chemical reaction between salt and magnesium – no magic here, no Piezo Effect from the crystal due to “ambient heat energy!”

  98. My background includes solid state physics and electrical engineering. I’ve been working on establishing a better theoretical understanding and description of WHY and HOW the crystal battery works. I’d like to chat with you about these two things if you might have the time. I have left my email address in the section requiring that. Or, you can phone me at 623 594 9195. RSVP, Howard

  99. Amagin one nade of carbon, like the tipe used in super capacitors. You would probably burn threw the magnesium core in like a weak but the output would be fanominal.

    I show people the things you do and thay say youre the fakest. Can you give me sume of thhe science that happens inside, thx.

  100. Hi Everyone,
    I would like to know from every one who has replicated the Crystal Cell. With a single cell the voltage across the anode and cathode is 1.3-1.5 volt. But what if we want to power an led from it does it light up? If any body on this page would let me know the reality I would be very thankful too him.

  101. In reference to heating a small room there is an alternative, which includes an aluminum soup can without the coating on the inside, an anodized bolt from the hardware store and 1 quart of motor oil. It creates a substantial amount of heat and can be scaled up as needed.

    • Tell me more!

  102. These cells are hydrate cells they require distilled water to work. The water creates the intimate contact need to produce electron flow. If they are dry the voltage will sag a bit but you will have no current. Add a few drops to 10 ml of distilled water only depending on the size of your cell. No tap water to many unknowns in there. Look at my cells on YouTube search BackRoomLabs. I have quite a few vids using lasersabers mix. They will explain quite a lot.

  103. have you tried sandwiching it? i mean does the magnesium has to be a rod? also have you tried using the oven to equally distribute heat?

  104. I have come up with an easy way to utilize the 4 part compound. I’m using the 1 ft carbon welding (scarfing) rods, sans the copper cladding. Carbon allows for about .2 more positive volts and no corrosion verses copper. The anode material is corrugated galvanized sheet metal cut into 1 ft individual “troughs” A small amount of the mixture is poured onto the trough with the rod then positioned. More mixture is poured in to not quite cover the rod. Distilled water is used to moisten the mix but not saturate. Tamping the sides compresses the mix which sets up like cement when dry. The voltage developed is about 1.25 and initially a short circuit current of about .5 amp. Dry, the short circuit current drops to .125 amps but won’t hold it too long. Still an easy way to get useful results! As an aside, i have been able to get my aforementioned mini voltage converters to work down to .350 volts. Not bad for silicon bipolar transistors! Two each, plus the two feedback resistors…

  105. If a cell need water to operate this means that is happening mostly galvanic reactions, meaning corrosion. The result is self destruction of the cell in month rather then years…

  106. hi laser hacker , i really like what you are doing because here in france nobody know about super capacitor or way to save some electricity but without you i wouldn’t be able to light my entire house for free every days , it cost me to find the parts but in the end of the day once it is installed it doesn’t cost a cent and i’d like to thank you for that.

    now my rooms kitchen and living room are light powered solin1 and LED light , and the other parts that i dont use really often with this chrystal cell system and it works great ,

    i drop the electricity bills by practically 20% now because during the day the solar system also recharge all my battery powered devices like phone macbook air , PSP …

    so thanks again .

    now with what i have learned from you i think about using the wind to recharge my boost cap .

  107. does a magnesium fire starter work?

    becaus they are realy cheap

    and i have a great idea with thes cells

  108. I have found them to work well. Mg works has the best negative voltage potential of all the common anode materials. I have purchased a lot of them from Harbor Freight when on sale. I have found you can remove the flint rods from the side, thereby exposing more surface area. You can do this by applying localized heat. I use a small butane torch. Just be careful. Mg is flammable when heated sufficiently. Hard to do and I’ve never had a problem. I would have some sand at the ready just in case…

  109. I have been doing tests with this technology for several weeks now. What is demonstrated here is a galvanic effect. The proof of this is the need of adding water periodically. It is NOT the same effect of the “Crystal Cell” of Marcus Reid. Also Like the John Bedini cell the need of water says much… But this one is a hole new ball game:

  110. I have a big bag of titanium parts.but they are very small parts. they are perhaps 2 inch long hollow tubes with narrow ends about the size around of a pencil

  111. Hi,
    Have you tried Morton Potassium Chloride Pellets for water softeners it should be straight Potassium Chloride without any additives. When I was watching John Hutchison’s video his wife said she did not want any organic stuff because it would effect the voltage or current of the battery. Some of your grocery store stuff has other ingredients that could be effecting the performance of the battery. One might have a neighbor that uses Morton’s Potassium Chloride Pellets and will give you a cup or two free.
    Also has anyone tried making flat disk cells?
    Thank you, Kenn.

  112. Thomas T.S. How did you seal your “Crystal Cell’s”??
    plastic? What??

  113. I used hot water (double boiler configuration) to bring the solution to a liquid state – no bubbling or other mess. I heated the container also then poured in the liquid and let it cool. It worked great! Still testing my results.

  114. Considering all of the Science going on here, this may seem like a silly question and a weird thing to say. I just feel the need to ask before I attempt to make this. But, can I use this power cell to charge my things? Laptop, iPod, phone, etc. And if so, can someone please explain to me how to do this? Trying to learn some new things lately and this sounds like fun to make. Thanks.

  115. Hey Lasersaber do you know about the theory behind the crystal cell that was originally invented by Marcus Reid in 1999? I have only ever heard John Bedini mention him and his theory and as wondering how well known he is.

  116. It is obvious for me now that this kind of approach results only a galvanic cell. it is not the kind of result like

    I built several of those explained here and after some weeks it start to fall apart. The mixture of salts start to fall from the copper tube.
    All my salts as laboratory grade, also the Mg and Cu.

  117. I have made 10 of these cells but I’m only producing about 800 micro amps. How can I increase this?

  118. I would like to know before I start on making crystal power cells. What are the risks of mixing this stuff together. I am trying to say is it explosive and toxic to keep a round the house. I also want to know if I can use magnesium tape wrapped around a copper rod for the core will that work just as good?

  119. The chemicals either mixed or separate are only as toxic as the labels indicate. I have not seen any adverse chemical reaction. I have made a couple of cells but after about a month, they stopped producing anything. I made one out of a dead AA carbon-zinc battery which showed some success. I am using it in a desktop calculator for about 3 months now.

  120. I have many of these cells that are well over a year old. If they lose power add a little distilled water. They don’t like a load on 24/7. They need time to recharge. They act like a capacitor that self charges. As for the toxic nature. They are completely no toxic. I wouldn’t eat the borax though it’s a soap…. Common sense should be used. Copper is safe magnesium is safe alum you can eat no salt you can eat Epsom salts are used for all kinds of stuff and the borax I already mentioned. Check out my videos on YouTube my channel is BackRoom Labs. I have several vids of the crystal cells with several different mixes…. Lasersabers cells will produce about 1.3 volts with is 30 milliamp dead short current. People who say these cells die after a few months have not done there research…..

  121. So i was going to make the second version of these crystal cells and make a 3D mold to put them together in series and attach them to the mini booster pack to replace my car battery. I was wondering when you made your second design of the these crystal cells what was the diameter of the magnesium rod and pipe you used cause it seemed to fit nicely together. I just don’t want to be hunting around for a whole bunch of PVC that may not slide in the copper and allow the rod to slide inside of it.

  122. To make a crystal cell try using Polyvinyl alcohol and borax with epsom salt with magnesium carbon or copper and magnesium. The borax and PVA mix to make a plastic when dry or use something for filler such as quartz powder or some ion conductor such as silicon dioxid or water glass such as sodium silicate or potasium silicate. When mixed it should be like a putty.

  123. LaserSaber,

    I love the information you research and then share; it’s awesome! I’ve got a question for you: with the easy spin motor you’ve got above with the crystal cell that you’re intending to run for 100 years, what kind of electricity could one get out of it if it were made into a generator? Specifically, what kind of amps might one expect to see? I’m thinking that even though a lot may not be taken at any one moment, the generator could save up much energy over time. Am I wrong? In other words, do you see any practical uses for such a machine especially if it became a generator? One more thing, where can I find out more about earth batteries, especially effective ones? Thanks a ton and keep up the great work!

  124. Himalyan salt might work in polymer cell using equal parts borax PVA salt and a bit of glycerol as polymerizer.
    And using magneium and copper electrodes.

    • Note: mix up your crystal cell solution first and keep both plates seperated. Then use an eye droper or a cyringe like dropper to apply your cell formula on each electrode. Then let dry in a hot room until hard. I used epsom salt and shower powder on a brass and I think aluminium plates. It dried to give me .58v and a fractin of a miliamp becuase it seemed to act like a piezo crystal. But that was just a test. So if you take magnesium and copper and apply wet material to each plate and let dry you may see a different result.

      • Also I just used a few drops for a thin layer or about a few mililiters on each plate about 2 to 5 depending on size.

  125. You can get titanium wire of different diameters at:
    And you can get titanium bars and sheets at:
    And titanium rod can be got at:
    The titanium is class 2 (99% pure) and the price is reasonable. If you use UPS ground and live in the 5 state area around Chicago your package will arrine in 1-2 days.

  126. Hello, Just curious as to how well do these battery cells take a charge if they can be recharged at all?

  127. Hello, I have been working on this and I have 10 cells built. Using a multimeter I can tell that I have over 10 volts. The problem is I cannot power anything. I believe it is because I have no current and very high resistance. Do you have any suggestions?

  128. depends on what you are trying to power. These cells are low current around 30 to 70 ma. Although two of these cells in series will light a led. 4 in series will power a small doc motor from a Walkman. If they are new they need to be hydrated to creat a pathway for the current to flow. Try adding a few drops of distilled water only to each cell. This will bring your current up. Over watering will hurt your current till they dry up a little. In a dry state you will have the voltage but minimal current. Also when adding these type of cells in series the impedance or internal resistance goes way up witch will hurt your current at the end of your string. Try putting them in parallel and building a simple joule thief to power many LEDs. Check out my channel on YouTube BackRoom Labs I have made several of LaserHackers design as well as other with great success.

  129. Adding moisture, (distilled water) will reduce cell resistance but it promotes corrosion process. I never have much luck getting extended service

  130. Can the powdered ingredients be melted together then poured in rather than heating the whole assembly or is melting it together necessary?

  131. I heated and melted my mixture then poured it into the gap between the mag and copper tube., they worked fine for me, giving 1.2v per cell. Too much heating gave air bubbles when the mixture filled the gap as part of some electrochemical reaction and this was not so good. Also important.. dont let the two metals get close enough to short over time as there seems to be expansion and movement.

  132. hi.. i have built these cells. while they do work for a long period of time, they also will run down..

    i had a bank of 8 in series running some LEDs. they ran fine for about a week and then slowly got dimmer and dimmer and finally would not run the LEDs without a joule thief type circuit..

    the JT circuit draws about 3-5mA, but it still got to be too much for the 8 cells that are the size of a D-Cell battery..

    i hit them with a pulse of 12Vdc and they ran the LEDs for another 2-3 hours but then fell off fast to where they wouldn’t run them again..

    each cell started out at 300mA at 1.4Vdc after they were built. i know they are supposed to drop off a little, but i checked them with the meter today and they are now sitting at 2-5mA a piece.. are they supposed to drop off that far?

    i know the contents are hygroscopic, i live right on the river in Alabama.. it is humid here at the moment being it is the rainy season.. Im wondering if humidity can effect the operation or if it is the cells themselves..

    i weighed each ingredient with a scale in equal parts.. mixed them up with a small grinder so that every parts was evenly and thoroughly incorporated b4 melting into the cells…

    the copper tubing was a little over 1in and the anode rod was 5/8in magnesium.. about 1/4in around the anode rod inside the cell.. i put a piece of 1/6in thick mica insulation sheet in the bottom of the cell to prevent grounding out of the electrodes.

    i melted the crystalline substance on a hotplate with a variable power supply and got it to where it melted real well and the cells got a good fill without any boil over..

    but as i mentioned b4, the cells worked real well for the first week and just ended up dying to unusable power afterwards.. i can hit them with 12Vdc and they will work for an additional few hours and then die off again.. this is only under a 3-5mA current draw when measured with a meter..

    is there something im missing? or am i going to have to have a 100lb multicell unit to run even a small led light for any measurable amount of time?

    i have researched this for many hours but cannot find a solution to the problem..

  133. you are correct the cells or hydroscopic. Although every few days you will need to add a few drops of distilled water to each individual cell.check out my channel on YouTube BackRoom Labs. I have quite a few of these cells that are about a year old. The cells will act similar to a capacitor that self charges. Try disconnecting the cells during the daytime. This will give them time to rest so they can recharge. Add a few drops of water distilled only to each cell. This will create the intimate contact needed to allow the electrons to flow. By doing this they will corrode a little faster but you will never get any usable current out of the cells unless they are watered. I have a couple videos that show the cells running different motors and LEDs and joule thiefs.

  134. i did a few alterations to the process of making the cells that seems to work well so far..

    i used copper tubing and brazed/welded a piece of sheet on the bottom so as to make a copper cup that is 3 inches tall and 1.5 inches across..

    i used a magnesium rod out of a water heater that was 3/4 inch in diameter.. this gives me almost 7/16 of an inch around the anode rod..

    i placed a 1/4in insulation spacer in the bottom of the cup to give me around that much between the bottom and the anode rod..

    i then cut the anode rod to where it was recessed 1/4in below the top of the cup to allow me to seal it off with silicone or hot glue..

    i drilled and added in a screw and wire on the magnesium rod.. i also drilled and added a screw to the very top of the copper cup.. i left the wire off the copper cup till i had finished the heating and cooling process.

    i added in the dry mixture a little bit at a time till it was 1/4in below the top of the copper tube.. i then let this set up till it was solid and then immediately sealed the cell off from any possibility of moisture absorption with a stick of hot glue..

    i also reworked the circuit i was using and the maximum draw is 4.7mA at 1.2Vdc.. the circuit will run 9V of ultra bright LEDs off a single crystal battery at a good brightness (enough to use as a nightlight) the circuit will operate on as low as 400uA and still light the LEDs a little.. im hoping to improve upon this..

    the new setup of crystal cell seems to work better than the last ones..

    the circuit and the cell also seems to be a good match..

    the voltage has actually climbed a little under load in the last few hours, even after running it on my other circuit for 2 days..

    i took it off the other circuit yesterday morning and placed it on the new circuit and it started out at 1.23Vdc. the battery now reads 1.26Vdc after a few hours of running..

    i used the sectional toroid core out of an old B&W TV
    with a few hundred turns of very fine wire wound on each half..

    i also am drawing the output voltages directly across the coil instead of from the collector and emitter pins of the transistor.. this places the LED in backwards from the input of the battery and it only sees the reverse pulses of voltage..

    the current draw this way when the LED is placed in the circuit will actually go down rather than up like a normal JT.

    i think this is because it helps drop the reverse spikes down lower than it normally would at the same frequency, and the circuit does not have to try to overcome the remainder of the reverse spike when the transistor turns back on..

    you see, under normal conditions at high frequencies there is still reverse voltage present when the transistor turns back on for the next cycle. when this happens the two voltages work against each other for a moment and this causes more current to be used.. when the LED is placed in backwards it conducts this reverse voltage and brings it to a lower state and the circuit does not see the reverse spike as an obstacle like it normally would.. this makes it more efficient..

    this setup also will allow you to regulate the voltage and you can actually run a 3V LED on a 12V battery (current regulating resistor on the LED in place of course). this is possible because the LED never sees the battery being it is in backwards..

    this creates another effect to where the more voltage that is used the lower the current draw to a certain point.. (4mA draw with 1.2V compared to 2mA draw with a 4.5V crystal battery)

    the circuits i was playing with that had the outputs in the normal positions, the current would go up when a load was placed on the circuit and also when a larger voltage was used (due to more reverse voltage and amperage working against the circuit ?).. the new circuit this is not the case up to a certain point..

    • oh, by the way.. if running a 3V LED off a larger voltage id suggest using a potentiometer in the circuit to let you regulate the voltage input.. i use a 50K POT for this..

  135. yep, you definitely want to seal them off if living in a humid environment.. took the one i run my clock with apart that i built months ago that i never sealed off.. there was severe pitting of the magnesium anode rod where the mixture was wet and the bottom of the cup was pushed off a little.. this shows a clear sign of galvanic effect when moisture is present..

    this might also be the reason behind the expansion of the crystalline mixture, where the anode rod gets pushed out of the cup. the ones that are kept driest show the least amount of crystal expansion..

    the ones that are kept completely dry also show a cycling phenomenon when used with a super efficient JT circuit and when under a no load situation..

    what i mean by this is that when under a no load or used on a super efficient JT type circuit the voltage will fluctuate up and down at irregular intervals and as much as 0.2Vdc in a matter of seconds..

    the voltage as well as the current will fluctuate up and down, bouncing down and then back up and sometimes leveling off above the initial starting voltage b4 dropping back down..

    sometimes when this cyclic effect starts up with certain circuit designs and certain frequency settings of the circuit, the voltage will climb a little above where the circuit was started from and bounce around in a certain voltage range.. the longest i observed this was well over a week b4 i took the thing apart and redesigned the entire thing.. the voltage would climb up and down but never fall below a certain point and was actually higher than the day i started the circuit..

    the fluctuations or resonating with the battery and circuit could be heard audibly as changes in the frequency.. when the voltage would spike the sound of the frequency would get lower and when the voltage would fluctuate down the sound would get higher in pitch..

    the circuit i got tossed together and running the 9V LEDs is doing this at this moment with the battery that i sealed off after production..

    take note that it is only the larger cells with atleast 3/8in between the copper and the magnesium that i have seen this cyclic effect.. for some reason the smaller cells with 1/8in or less between the copper and magnesium will not do this that i am aware of. atleast i have never witnessed this happen in the smaller cells..

    but the contents must be kept extremely dry for this effect to take place.. if the contents get soggy then it does not seem to do this even in the larger cells..

    im not sure if this would suggest that something other than a galvanic effect was taking place or not.. most galvanic effects for a given electrolyte are relatively stable for most systems, and what you meter reads when the cell is under a no load condition that is all the voltage reading you get.

    same with the loading of the cell. the voltage might climb a little at first as the galvanic effect increases and then start falling at a even rate, but there is usually no fluctuations to speak of…

  136. but take note that the fluctuations only start up after the first week and after the cells have stabilized at the permanent output ratings..

  137. In the video you mention that the crystal cells level out. At aproximatly what voltage levels do they level? Does makeing them larger or smaller vary the output or just the life? Have you tried hooking them up to an inverter to power larger household items, or are they just realy a flashlight battery not capable of powering anything of real use other than lights?

  138. Hi guys,
    I have built some crystal batteries by following the first video, I got 1.4 – 1.5 volts, and I ran a small motor. The problem is that after a few minutes there is a fall, and it stops working.
    Some advice?
    (I’m Italian, sorry if my English is strange!)

  139. Reuben, it depends on the cell in question to where they level off at.. bigger electrodes will yield a little better current but has very little to do with voltage.. the voltage is more or less static, it is the current that drops..

    i have some i built a few months back, they are about the size of a D-Cell battery with a 5/8in magnesium rod..
    they leveled off at 1.3V at around 12mA.. not a lot of current there.. but keep in mind that where they level off at unloaded is a lot different than the useable current you can get when you put a load on them….

    i did some calculations to see what it would take to run a small inverter and a 1A load..

    to get 12V-15V to run the inverter you would need 11 or 12 of the 1.3V batteries in series.. to get enough amperage to run a load of 10A (remember it takes more amperage to run the inverter with the drill than the drill uses, usually around 8-10A for one amp of useable output)

    but to run the 1A load and inverter at 10A you would need around 800 of them in parallel to get up to 10A if each cell dropped to 12mA open current..

    but keep in mind the current you can actually draw would be lower than the open circuit current. this taken into account with the amount you would need to have 15V at 10A the numbers boggle the mind.. so small lighting or smallish transistor radios is about all they are good for..

    and Valerio, that is normal.. while these cells will give out a long power curve, the output is something to left desired.. a standard brush type DC motor is very current hungry.. these cells are not meant to give or are they capable of giving out large amounts of current for long periods..

    even at a current draw of only 3-4mA they will fall off to where they cant even run a joule thief circuit.. think applications where you only draw in the micro amp (uA) range for these to be really useable..

    while these cells are cool to play with, for the amount of power you get (even if it was infinite) and with the amount of resources required to make them they are not practice for much of anything.. and unless your willing to build one that weighs a few tons there is just not that much you can do with them.. it is a toy..

  140. So as i suspected they have little real world use, maybe as a tricle charger rig for larger batteries or to light a few led bulbs for light in small sheds or something along that route as a usefule item. Or maybe as a fun do it yourself flashlight battery.

  141. @Mauser 98K
    Thank you very much you for your answer!
    I also tried to turn on a LED with a joule thief circuit, and it works only for a few hours…
    And then… we can say that the “unlimited” duration of crystal batteries is all a hoax?

    • My water battery has been powering a green LED for over a week. Just immerse that magnesium rod in water (no “baking”) surrounded by 10 turns of copper wire. A guy free-sourced this plan, and only asks for royalites if profits are made. I have found that bigger isnt exponentially better (voltage-speaking) and have yet to experiment with several in parallel or series.

  142. I will also chime in here and add that I ALSO built a few of these, using the stamping, non-cooking method. They have all stopped producing after a few weeks – months. If I ever get to try again, I’ll definitely go with the cooking method. I hooked them up with a Jewel Ringer Circuit to power a LED for a small nightlight, following the instructions on this site, but it only worked for a day or two. I was disappointed, but still excited to cook one and see if it can go and go and go and go. I’m also trying to get a little spinner to go forever and ever and ever 24/7 till the end of days.

  143. just add a little distilled water to them every few days

  144. yea, applications are very limited.. while the ones i have sealed off to the air leveled off at 10-12mA open circuit current, the useable current was only around 5-8mA for a cell the size of a D-cell..

    these do have their place though.. one can use them to run small clocks for long periods. i have done that with the clock in my room..

    even at a current draw of 800uA the power becomes too low for a single cell to operate a super efficient JT type circuit.. while it will light an LED light it just will not bee that bright

    but i wouldn’t go as far as saying hoax on these setups.. they will produce 1.3Vdc-1.5Vdc for years, it is just that the current output is so low as to make it virtually useless for powering household items.. demonstration uses and as a conversation piece they are great, but the real world applications are very limited unless the power output can be kept above 100mA useable current….

    a large earth battery will give better results for less hassle.. i have made a small earth battery that puts out 300mA useable current at 1.7Vdc..

    but take note that even most earth batteries still work on the galvanic action.. a true free energy earth electricity receiver would work on either the telluric currents or radiant RF..

    the problem with the telluric currents is that while they are tapable the spacing of the plates have to be measured in hundreds of meters to get any good output..

    this potential will show up as an alternating current rather than a Dc current from my observations..

    2 stainless plates about 1 meter square buried in the ground from north to south at a distance of 100ft will give approximately .4-.5Vac at 100-200uA where i live..

    but there is a way to get around the galvanic action with a standard earth battery setup.. i found that even if using stainless plate and a carbon plate you still get an electrical potential.. using a stainless canteen cup and a large carbon brush from a DC motor i got 1.2Vdc at 3mA.. carbon does not really corrode, and while stainless can corrode it is at such a slow rate to be measured an can last decades or longer in the earth.. will produce power longer than we might live anyway..

  145. Is it possible to use some sort of amperage limiter to compensate for the gradual decline in amps? I want to use a larger system of cells as a desktop computer power source or small vehicle motor, but I would need to have some sort of compensation to hold the amperage level.

  146. can you charge this, im planning my house with this stuff

    • These cells aren’t capable of producing any useful amounts of current for any length of time. They are novel and fun to play with. I had fun with them as I did with salt cells and earth batteries. Stick with solar cells and some storage medium. Standard storage batteries or a bank of high farad caps?

  147. ok so i was watching your vids on youtube and also saw king of random and wondered could I use a carbon rod from a battery instead of the magnesium rod?

  148. You should use carbon (as the anode) and magnesium (as the cathode) together as they will produce the greatest voltage of any commonly available materials. magnesium, -1.75 volts. Carbon, +0.3 volts. Together, over 2 volts per cell, (theoretically). I never got quite that much, but better than any other electrode combos. Magnesium ribbon wrapped around a carbon rod separated by a saltwater wetted paper towel works great. The magnesium doesn’t last too long though…

  149. Your crystal battery, I notice you have both ends open. Have you tried to connect both ends as single positives to create a higher amp?

  150. Just saw your note. I left this website when I found out about the “water battery.” I am still using the magnesium rod, but instead of all this “baking” it is just submerged in water only. And importantly, 10 turns of exposed copper wire. That’s it. Some guy outsourced this plan, and asks for royalties only if money if profits are made. I must say, I built a 3 foot version and the voltage only increased from 1.5 to 1.75….still no appreciable amps. It’s been powering a green LED for over a week. The beauty of this is, that when it dies, I should be able to remove the parts, use a scouring pad, and start over.

  151. Hey was wondering, since your using artificial salt and its slightly radioactive. Did you make a form of radioactive isotope battery?

    And also have you checked for radon gas in your basement, not saying its from playing with or heating artificial salt, but is it effecting your results. Like is the voltage the same outside as well as inside on the crystal cells? Maybe the crystal cells picking up a extra beta particle from the surrounding area?

    And i’m going to build one, hehhehe

  152. what is a “Mini Boot Pack”?

  153. Built a few based on your plans. I found stuffing the powder and heating up the entire thing to be messy and difficult to get right. We found the best way was to heat up the mix to melting point in a separate metal pot (such as half a beer can), and pour the mixture in. This mean no mess and no air pockets. We got much better results like this. This technique meant we could create a wooden box with separate cells of copper and aluminium plates and link them in series / parallel.

    One battery we made with the mag core went from 1.3v to 1.7v over night, and is still increasing. We also are getting 100mA from it. The downside is we can’t seem to power a small motor for more than a few minutes before we have to disconnect it to allow it to ‘recharge’. I would like to build something like your low friction motor.

  154. hi i have a question about the chemistry of this cell what do you think that how this cell is working as i think the things you have mixed up together these chemicals have started half life process thats why they are giving us engery which is converted in to electrical energy if not then would you please explain me how the recation is done because i have searched every possible theory for that and if nothing else then i have to say it is converting gravitational energy into electrical energy ok second you are using Magnesium and Magnesium Alloys -1.60 to -1.63 and Copper -0.30 to -0.57 if we use Aluminum – Anode -1.10 and Carbon, Graphite, Coke +0.30 to +0.20 will this give us more output volt as i think and they are much cheaper and last the cell you have made you can make is more power full you just have to chrage it for a while and is there is half life process going on then i bet we can have more energy we can think of but the life of the cell will reduce
    kindly replay to my questions
    thanks in advance

  155. You project… very Cool
    Check this out !
    new secret been discovered MEDELIS BATTERY


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