Capacitor Powered SJR Looper – Lights Run On and On and On….. by lasersaber | May 1, 2014 | Joule Ringer | 26 comments Ferrite: Pot Core - (ICH) B65943A-X22 Pic 47 mm 29.8 mmhttp://www.surplussales.com/Inductors/FerPotC/FerPotC-1.html3D .stl file for bobbin:http://laserhacker.com/3DParts/BoibbinSJRLooper.STL 26 Comments Ryan Thompson on May 1, 2014 at 3:14 pm Do you plan on making the 3d bobbin for sale, hard to replicate with out! I would like 4 if you could make them for me! I love your videos, keep up the good work! Reply Ryan Thompson on May 1, 2014 at 3:16 pm PS forgot, please make the + / – on the bridge rectifier easier to read on schematic! Thanks again. Reply Steven Jones (physicsprof, jouleseeker) on May 1, 2014 at 4:31 pm Exciting progress, LS – well done, as always! Sincere congratulations. Can you tell us the frequency of the oscillation? From today’s video (THANKS!), I get that the system runs from 4:18 to 15:32, that is, for 11min14sec on a 10,000uF electrolytic cap. My experience is that such caps are generally “leaky”. You might test a few caps (charge them up, measure V over time) to get a “minimal leaky” cap; high-quality caps are available and might help in the goal for a self-runner. I’ve posted re: your work at OU.com and OUR.com. Thanks again, Steve. Reply Gene on May 1, 2014 at 6:30 pm Howdy, Cool, looks like you use the FWBR in a weird way not normally considered. This one looks easy enough to replicate, how many layers of the red did you do? is there a specific thickness of red you want between the inner most layer and the outtermost layer? I still need to assemble the oleg electrostatic 3d printed motor… 🙂 Thanks for sharing! Gene Reply Alejandro on May 2, 2014 at 1:01 am Hi, how long you tested? more 24hs ? Reply Hoptoads on May 2, 2014 at 7:36 am Fascinating circuit. Looking forward to more of your observations and revelations. Well done lasersaber.! Reply A J on May 2, 2014 at 11:32 am hi how r u please if you could provide me info about this products where can i get parts and how i can replicate thank you for work and inspiration you providing Reply travbm on May 2, 2014 at 4:08 pm Can you try a high voltage 1000v N-channel FET at a few amps? Or does the voltage of the transistor matter or the current capacity? I seen a joul thief get brighter on a higher amp and voltage transistor from a past experiment I did. Also if you use a lithium ion capacitor you can run it longer maybe because it is 3.6v. And if you use a dc-dc converter to recharge your litium ion capacitor maybe it will run longer in a previous circuit demo I seen? Reply 4Tesla on May 4, 2014 at 4:06 pm Hi LaserSaber, Thank you for sharing your work! The top layer could maybe be replaced by just copper foil? Also gap has been used with these. Have you tried gap vs no gap? Usually just a thin plastic washer in center is used to make gap. Reply 4Tesla on May 4, 2014 at 5:10 pm Hi LaserSaber, I forgot to ask.. did you try different loads besides LEDs or only work with LEDs? Also do you know where I can buy a bobbin for that pot or do I have to have one made by a 3d printing service? Thank you! Reply 4Tesla on May 4, 2014 at 5:30 pm Sorry I didn’t get this in one post.. one more question. Where is ground on your scope.. is the sine wave ac or is it a positive sine wave? Thank you! Reply Salvatore de Rosa on May 5, 2014 at 7:02 am Well done Lasersaber! Keep up the good work. You are lighting a 20mA LED with 20microamps draw? travbm could your rewrite your post in English, it seemed to be interesting. Reply Palle on May 6, 2014 at 12:11 pm Hej HACKER…. Very interesting – is it possible to bet more data from you ? 1. wich frequens on the scop. ? 2. coil-data, how many Winding on eack coils ? Thanks in adwance… Palle Reply Palle on May 6, 2014 at 12:12 pm Hej HACKER…. Very interesting – is it possible to get more data from you ? 1. wich frequens on the scop. ? 2. coil-data, how many Winding on eack coils ? Thanks in adwance… Palle Reply Palle on May 6, 2014 at 6:24 pm Please Releace som data of the coil so I can replicate it. Wich frequens do you mesure ? How abt. mesure Volt while it runs without batery … Pleace be more specific in how to make one. Thanks Palle Reply Dave H on May 12, 2014 at 12:54 am Hi LS, Impressive work! Developing an “almost nothing parts count,” extremely high Q, resonant, low current oscillator is a MAJOR accomplishment that few designers can achieve; including most well experienced Analogue/RF Engineers. So, you can “check off” Phase One of the Three Phases! Phase Two – Isolate (decouple from the input), increase power if needed, and couple-off an output. One method to consider might involve exploiting a little known magnetic field anomaly whereby a primary core magnetic field is “used” by one, or more, secondary core(s) without inducing any adverse effects on the primary – no Back EMF – Lenz Law effect. Coil, core construction and physical characteristics (spacing, separation, placement,etc.)are key . Although not well understood yet by many, this magnetic field phenomena offers one viable technique. In one form or another it has been used by Akula, Kapanadze, Heins, Tesla, and a few others with varying schemes and degrees of success. Much of the current electronic (so called solid state) OU (FE CE)experimentation ultimately targets this approach. Andrey Melnichenko probably best explains the fundamentals: http://ferromagnetic-energy.ru/core_of_the_physical_effect/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djy5J0kiL58 Stage Three: Feed back (inject) a portion of the output from stage two (secondary induction) to form a “closed loop” self sustaining electrical apparatus. Good luck and keep up the GREAT work! Dave H. Reply 4Tesla on May 12, 2014 at 1:49 am Another question.. what frequency is the circuit running? Reply High Bay LED Lighting on June 20, 2014 at 3:21 pm Thе user name is high bay led light… Mary high bay led lights. Reply Ale on June 23, 2014 at 7:59 pm Yes, you’re right, I think here is the secret! Reply KOMADORI on September 15, 2014 at 1:03 am You are my hero! I have 2 strings of lights I want to keep running on sjr power. They would normally just plug into an outlet (120v) Where to start? What size caps would you use and how many? How many ferrite pots, or would another form be better like a rod or ring? What gage wires for the primary and secondary? I would love nothing better than to run my whole house on this, but for now, just to get me going, will you start me off with string lights? Thanks. Reply KOMADORI on September 15, 2014 at 1:38 am LS, I am so excited about this that I forgot to ask about the transistor and diodes. Thanks so much Komadori Reply Fanie on December 19, 2014 at 10:25 pm Hello, very nice, keep going with your stuff ! You can try to replace the diode bridge with schottkey diodes. The Schottkey diodes have less forward drop as well, the larger the current rating the less forward drop you get. Or with high speed si diodes if the voltage drop over the diodes is required, the standard diode bridge si diodes have more leakage and will not work well at higher frequencies, in fact they begin to break through and begin to short internal at high frequencies. You can try replacing the electrolytic cap with a Lo-ESR cap of the same value. If you use the circuit to charge a battery (instead of running an LED), but briefly refresh your cap voltage every ~8 minutes for a short period from the same battery, could this run forever… ? You would then use the battery to run the LED light, when you switch the LED light off, the battery will charge back up. You can measure the energy charging into the battery (current charging battery over time vs current over time to charge the cap) to see if the above will work for ever. LOL. Now if you use a Lithium Ion Phosphate battery (with super capacitors) you can dump the solar panel too… Come on, measure the power in vs power out. Reply Fanie on December 19, 2014 at 10:41 pm At my age I guess I can sometimes forget some things 😉 The wire coil ratio’s could be very important. If you got the ratio’s right first time then it was sheer luck, like winning the lotto ;-o To get an LED to run longer and perform better you can current limit with something like the NSI45020T1G, a constant current diode that will regulate the LED current. A series resistor over-current at higher voltage and undercurrent when the voltage drops. Reply KOMADORI on December 21, 2014 at 4:13 am I WILL GIVE IT A SHOT ……THANKS FOR THE HELP. Reply anivin on January 21, 2015 at 7:36 pm Hi ! Mr.laserSaber ….. in your next video can you please use a Leyden jar capacitor and a crystal cell ……. ………. Thanks ……… Regards Reply Erik on February 22, 2015 at 7:45 am If you combine the crystal power cell with the joule ringer. How much power do you get from one or four power cells combined, and is it possible to upscale the design for power product to get off the grid? Have you thought of this? Reply Submit a Comment Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment characters available Name * Email * Website Time limit is exhausted. Please reload CAPTCHA. × nine = 54 Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email.