Alternative projects, inventions, experiments and DIY projects
Posted by lasersaber on Jun 28, 2013 in Featured Projects, Joule Ringer | 71 comments
Ferrite rod I used here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-by-5-8-625-ferrite-rod-good-for-hf-balun-/280918638410?pt=US_Ham_Radio_Amplifiers&hash=item41680e3f4a
use a vortex coil on your core starting with one turn then 2 then 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,then down 15,14,13,ect. step up on secondary by 2x 3x 4x ect. to your desired output of the 2ndary windings.
That sounds very interesting. I will have to try a vortex coil sometime.
hey man, about what would you say the cop rating on this SJR3 is?
Hi lasersaber, I am wanting to build a coil for the sjr. I believe you use 18 gauge for the secondary and 14 for the primary. Can you tell me what the ohms reading is for each coil? This would be a great help. Thanks
put this coil up on youtube man and show us what you mean. show us how good it works. thanks joe.
Hi lasersaber! I love your work man however this particular statement is really for joe and his coil. joe, please put a video on youtube showing the winding of the vortex coil and how you go about using it to your advantage.
that would be nice if you could. thanks man. let us know when its up . (<:
Amazing! You know I love your blog!!!
Hi Lasersaber – I have some questions about this circuit man. I’ve built this thing almost exactly to spec and I’m getting around 3-4 amp draw on a 90mA bulb. I would like to adjust this thing to run 12 of these but unsure where to go from here since adding one more would probably blow the transistor.
Feel free to email me here: email@example.com
I really appreciate your work!
I built this according to the schematic and managed to light up a 7W led spotlight but not an incandescent. The incandescent got warmer and that’s. The bulb is a 240V. Could this be the reason? Can I wind the rod in a different manner to light the 240V bulb? The led spotlight that I did manage to light is also 240V by the way. Thanks for any suggestions.
I wonder what the FCC thinks about these? I mean that I am sure some type of RF is given off. I wonder what it is?
Yes, it gives off RF. It is a radio-active device…
Probably no more than any other close-coupled inductive device like a transformer though, which is all it is.
You need a lot more power (watts) and a significant antenna before this would couple to the earth’s field and travel more than a few feet, and I believe a 2N3055 runs at audio frequencies, much lower than the mega-to-gigahertz band you are used to calling ‘Radio’.
There is also no capacitance to tune the inductance to and indeed build power parametrically. These things are pretty much required to make a radio-active transmitter.
Thanks for the reply. It sounds like there is little or no worry about interference. Correct? Or, if there is any interference, it is inside an acre or two.
Correct. This coil isnt radiant even pushing a 240v Halogen tube (I’m in the UK). You could easily build a small Faraday cage around it if you are worried though, but a lack of an antenna on any of these type devices means they cant couple to the Earth’s field.
The worst thing I ever built was a radiant emitter-collector based on Tesla coils but running from a 1.5v cell. Cant remember the name, it was a few years ago. That one operated at around 9MHz and blasted my radio and TV but didnt bother anyone else in the terrace I live in. Nothing ever has…
Be more worried about your fingers than the FCC playing with electricity, friend
very good website.-
Hey, your website is looking great. Just wondering, what is the power source for this schematic? I’ve seen videos on youtube, namely lidmotor’s vids, where they have lit an incandescent with a AA, through a resonating joule thief. Also, how would you go about fine tuning a joule thief? I understand that if you use a bifilar coil, you have no inductance. Would magnetic coupling allow for inductance? Thank you.
Hey man love your vids and projects. Im thinking about trying to make this thing but was wondering if the wire size is critical? Im new to winding coils/transformers this would be my first so sorry if this is dumb question. I have some 12 awg house wire and some magnet wire from radioshack not sure what size it is but maybe 30 awg?? would these work? thanks man
how much battery capacity need? …
how can i light a 100 watt bulb?
i love your projects. i dont know much on electronics. i have built some power supplies and fixed some of my other stuff. but this is exactly what im looking for. i like to to be self sufficient.
how many turn ist the 28 guage wire in your device?
and how many Volt ist the Input of this device?
I AM TRYING TO MAKE ENOUGH POWER TO RUN A FRIG. WHAT WOULD A CAR BATTERY DO? @ 12 – 24 – 36 – OR 48 VOLTSS? SOLAR PANELS ARE FROM 12 TO 48 VOLTS. WHAT IF YOU USED LARGER WIRE? 12 OR 10 MAYBE 8
ANY WAY IF YOU HAVE SOME TIME SEND ME DRAWING SO I KNOW WHAT TO BUY.
ONE MORE THING WHAT IS FERRITE ROD.
ACCORDING TO WIKIPEDIA, “In electronics, a ferrite core is a type of magnetic core made of ferrite on which the windings of electric transformers and other wound components such as inductors are formed. It is used for its properties of high magnetic permeability coupled with low electrical conductivity (which helps prevent eddy currents). Because of their comparatively low losses at high frequencies, they are extensively used in the cores of RF transformers and inductors in applications such as switched-mode power supplies, and ferrite loopstick antennas for AM radio receivers.”
Your video’s are amazing! I am very curious if you are still experimenting with the Joule Ringer.
An idea just popped into my head while reading up on how to tune a Tesla Coil, which might work wonders in this Super Joule Ringer circuit. I’ll try to be as detailed as possible, so bear with me.
I decided to build a Super Joule Ringer 3.0 and wound the coil. Unfortunately, I did not have enough wire for the primary winding, so it only covered about 50% of the secondary. Also, I wound it on a PVC tube, because I was unsure how important the ferrite was and did not have a ferrite rod at hand. When I connected everything, I was able to dimly light a 12v incandescent light bulb from a 5v input.
At the time, I thought this result wasn’t that amazing, because I had seen the lights in your video shine brightly. So I purchased some more wire and wound a primary which covered the entire secondary, as in your video. However, now I was unable to light up the 12v incandescent light bulb.
The idea that just hit me is that your original Super Joule Ringer 3.0 coil is based on magnetic coupling and therefore requires a ferrite core to function, which explains why I was unable to light the bulb in the second case using a PVC core. However, in the first case, the coil might have been acting as a Solid State Tesla Coil (SSTC) which is based on resonant inductive coupling, which explains why I was able to light the bulb, since a Tesla Coil functions best with a non-magnetic core like the PVC I used.
Some quotes from our dear friend Wikipedia about resonant inductive coupling:
“Resonant transfer works by making a coil ring with an oscillating current. This generates an oscillating magnetic field.”
“Non-resonant coupled inductors, such as typical transformers, work on the principle of a primary coil generating a magnetic field and a secondary coil subtending as much as possible of that field so that the power passing though the secondary is as close as possible to that of the primary. This requirement that the field be covered by the secondary results in very short range and usually requires a magnetic core.”
“Using resonance can help improve efficiency dramatically. If resonant coupling is used, each coil is capacitively loaded so as to form a tuned LC circuit. If the primary and secondary coils are resonant at a common frequency, it turns out that significant power may be transmitted between the coils over a range of a few times the coil diameters at reasonable efficiency.”
My hypothesis is therefore that replacing the original Super Joule Ringer 3.0 coil with a tuned Tesla Coil can work in this circuit and potentially yields superior results, since even my very flawed, accidental version was able to light an incandescent light bulb dimly.
I will run some tests myself this week and love to hear what others think about this idea.
In the case of this Joule Ringer, I suppose that having the resistive load (light bulb) connected to base makes the circuit run on the Resonant Frequency of the Coil + Load.
An assymetric transformer, like Tesla did discover, both coils only share little magnetic component, but in case Seconday is short circuited, the Primary doesn’t deliver more current, is blind to what is happening on Secondary. So if you make a Tesla coil with two parallel coils and you touch Secondary, primary will give more power to the system and you can get fried.
What a ferrite core does is to handle high frequencies and reduce the amount of turns for the getting the same Inductance. But it reduces the frequency in comparison to air cores that can get to GygaHertz… ( it’s not the same delivering 5ml. of water 60 times a seccond that to do it thousand of millions times a second ).
One thing it will be interesting and educative to do in the comunity of interested in free energy, is to make a spreadsheet to calculate resonant frequencies. So we can make two coils with the same resonant frequency even thought they have big difference in the diameter. The comparison can be made with pipes. To have the same frequency on a bigger pipe than a thin pipe, you must get mass off… so Mass is a principal factor, so then you cut some squares (like pipeorgan) on the border… to reduce mass and have the same frequency of an entire thinner pipe.
So maybe is just mass, but in this case i think capacitancce and inductance, so impedance, are the factors to take in account. (see Nomograph)
Any light on the matter really welcome.
Hi Laser Saber,
Just built the 3.0 cct and used an 8.5W LED bulb.
The bilb wouldn’t light with 6 volt batt will light with a 12v batt.
Will not start consistently or at low voltage. checked with scope.
Amp draw on the 120v, 8.5W led bulb is 1.3A with 12v batt input.
That’s a lot more than 8.5W. Will do different types of bulbs.
Waveform is different with each type.
I used the recommened core and had a difficult time getting 72turns of #14 on it.
My have only 71.
I was convinced that the amp draw would be far less.
how did you make the coil ?? can you please show the clear skematic because i dont understand the skenatic above …. thank you please reply ..
Been visiting from time to time. Love your work and feel it’s time to try something of yours.
Laser, like the videos. New to this electrical stuff! Question, there are three wires where does each one go and the schematic as I view it isn’t all that clear to me where everything fits together! Just don’t understand some of the terminology ect. ect. Thnx!!!!
How long does this last with a CFL for example? On 1mA/h battery we’ll say… no one mentions this. Thanks
Thx luv your stuff keep going
Two questions: Can we have some numbers please? Battery ratings, current draw or time to ‘flat’ for the various loads, and actual voltage/frequency of output to those loads.
Secondly, if the object of the exercise is to provide lighting from low voltage DC (12v or thereabouts?), why not use a suitable lamp rated at the low voltage and bypass all the conversions steps with their intrinsic losses.
I really don’t see the point of this setup at all.
Love all your videos and I’ve been following you for some time now. One thing that I’ve been wondering about, and especially now when you can run that many bulbs on a 20w load is, how much energy can you catch if you set up a couple of solar panels around these lights? Maby just 3 if using the bendable panels to go around the lights and at the top. Would it be possible to break the laws of physics and actually collect more energy than what’s used to run the lights?
I guess not, but I think it would be really interesting to see how much that can be collected.
Put a third winding on and use the back EMF to recharge your caps.
I used the 8 inch ferrite rod. Approx 150 – 200 turns against 35 turns spread evenly over the high turns. I can light 4 (possibly more) LED 3 Watt 240v AC lamps very brightly and draws 380ma from a 9V battery. But I just cannot light a standard 240V AC 244ma CFL. I can light 1 x CFL if I remove the electronics from the lamp and just use the CFL itself but even then its not as bright as I would like – the LED lamps are far better. I have tried various different turns on the low turns side but still am unable to light a standard out of the box CFL – does anyone have any suggestions?
BTW – good work and thanks for sharing your work with the rest of us, its much appreciated!
Dicky,if you want to save time hook this setup to an off the shelf transformer. I am using a 120v-12v 40va stepdown. There is no squealing just the resonation as the frequency changes each time you turn on a light. The transformed tunes itself each time you turn on a light. I have this tied into my solar/battery system. This setup also runs cell phone chargers,iPods,kindles and small battery recharge packs. I would like to see this sjr setup run heavier loads like a printer or TV. Time has kept me from working on other coil designs. Many other projects,but this works and it works well. No more inverter, which drains the battery just sitting there. The beauty of the sjr is there is no power draw until you turn on a light or plug the charger in. Hope this helps. Keep the wheels turning..
Sorry for the late response – I have been out the country on training!
Using the transformer sounds extremely interesting and I will have to give it a go! So thanks for the info.
Assuming your transformer type of circuit will light-up the cfl’s to a good brightness and a good current draw, I will use the ferrite rod setup to drive the LED lamps in parallel then as they are very bright considering the small current draw! So thanks a lot! Will let you know how I get on when I get a chance to give it a go!
Thanks for the reply to my previous question. Oh, wait, that didn’t happen.
Tell me, when you plugged in all those lamps, how much extra light was produced? Did the 10 lamps produce 10 times the light of one, or just about twice as much light as one?
At a guess, it looked to me like the latter (twice the power in, possibly twice the light out), but if you’d like to be taken seriously perhaps you could quote some luxmeter figures? You do have a luxmeter, don’t you?
Are you taking the circuitry out of your LED light bulbs to make this work.?
Another question.. Does adding the caps make the Joule Ringer 3.0 more efficient..? If so what caps are they.?
how many laps have your transformer on the secondary if the primary has 72 turns in the secondary wire 14 in wire 28 but just say? how many laps have??
Does anyone know how this would work if I made the primary windings with 22 gage wire.?
Here is a thought; just remove the transister and have a loop with a reed switch and a capacitor. The reed switch is next to the transformer’s magnetic field and ocilateds the circuit. The other side could run a light or set up two ocillating loops or some configuration. I think you can charge it up with a battery in the circuit or just use ultra capacitors.
This device operates without an external source of energy?
How long it can operate without an external power source?
This device can be purchased? What is the price?
well this is great! have decided to do the build on this but wonder how long the 14volt batt you have will last with a 25watt cfl? This is important info in regards to making this a mobile/independent device for camping or dog walking! Any idea how long a 25watt cfl lasts on 14 volt battts? Or does it need down grading to 5 watts. Not sure what the watts were for bulbs used in this video. If i was guessing a 25watt bright bulb would last 10 mins? Its all very exciting, so please send some info:)
I just made the POE vortex coil. Can anyone help me figure out how to use it as a joule ringer. It has 2 equal wound number of turn coils. Do I just jumper those together and use that as me primary. Then add another coil on top of those as my secondary. I will be happy to share my work. Thanks.
Hi, cogratulations on this wonderful project
but could you give some more details about winding and also wanted to know if the ferrite rod has to be “tube” like or it can also be a rod with no opening in the middle. Excuse my ignorance but I’m a beginner in electronics.
i got 2 questions
1 . ratio on the windings?i want from 12v to 220v?
2. direction of windings?
how many turns are in the secondary, which was first rolled up wire.
Her greetings Laser! Sorry, I do not know English, I write from Russia, through a translator.
Have been following your work! Whiz!
Listen, if your Joule Ringer, after supercapacitor – attach increasing line transformer and after it Volt 1000-3000 per reel!? Tried it?
Hi lasersaber, just got my core and wired it all up according to the schematic diagram and I cant get it to work yet, It seems your video above is wired slightly differently to the schematic.. Or am I just totally confused.
When measuring the power used. what kind of meter are you using? It looks electronic. That is the the rms value would be calculated value from the peak voltages and current. Measuring current with an analogue meter may give different results. The LED lamps only draw power in short pulses and with a number of lamps those pulses may interleave most of the time. This would give a reading that looks very good, but you may still be running 70 watts or so in reality. Measuring the discharge rate in a bank of capacitors may work better.
This is not a put down of the design at all, All our off grid tools are based of the failings of batteries and capacitors need a different set of tools to be used effectively.
The link to the ferrite rod indicates it is 5/8″ but the video of the SJR3 shows a much larger diameter and in the video you state that you have stacked the ferrite cores. Would you please post the source or specs of the actual core(s) you used in this demo? I am trying to replicate and would appreciate the ability to be as exact as possible.
I was referring to the SJR with the mini boost pack demo in my request above for the size/specs of the ferrites.
Can I substitute 32 gauge for the 28 gauge wire in the diagram above?
I tried to make your circuit like you mentionned but I always blow up my 2N3055 transistor.
Now I changed my 2N3055 for a C5387 from a CRT monitor and this is working just fine but the circuit is pulling 1.65A with only a 13W CFL bulb and a incadescent bulb is just barely glowing.
My transformer is a 8×3/4” PVC pipe filled with chunks of ferrite to increase the inductance.
Do you have any idea of what I did wrong?
I’ve been playing with these for about a month. And have found that incandescent bulbs do tend to blow transistors. I measured the ohms of one such bulb and got about 17.Correct me if I’m wrong, but my conclusion is when one is used as the load (or in parallel with the load like in a power bar) it is very near short condition drawing as much current as possible and welding the transistor open.
*moment of silence for lost transistors*
Hi lasersaber, i have a 11 watt bulb running off a 14v lipo, and the transister is getting very hot., ( based on your design ) have ordered a cpu fan to cool it but wonder if a bigger or more modern transistor would work.. 2n5886 or mj15001… what do you think., thanks, your help would be much appreciated. (yes have reduced the amps ( adjusted windings) as best i could with out losing nice brightness)
It seems that even though it is oscillating at audio freq’s, it could still generate harmonics that could interfere with a nearby AM radio (AM commercial broadcast range is from 88KHz to 108KHz in U.S.).
You could try an old AM radio to see if this interferes. If it causes problems you could build a shield around the coil (Faraday cage).
Schematic can be slightly misleading. Switch your leads on the primary (or secondary) winding.Took me a couple frustrating days even after watching LaserSaber’s tips video. Sometimes your so positive your right, you can watch the answer half a dozen times and still not see it. *FACE PALM*
I am trying to do a replication of your joule ringer 3.0 and have had problems getting the ferrite rods. Would it be possible to stack the ferrites such as the ones from a monitor’s vga cable glued together into a hollow tube for the replication. I just want to make sure that gluing them together won’t create some sort of issue with it working. Thanks in advance
Seriously, Your work is awesome. I am amazed. Keep up the experiments
Good job, very interesting the Joules Thief me too I began research on Circuits and impressed me its reliability and durability, here I leave my Amplifies Electricity Generator Rotor, greetings to all ., look this please https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5xnx4ztsTg
Is it AC or DC out.
The cold resistance of an incandescent light bulb is significantly lower than that when it is hot when powered. The initial inrush current and power required will be much higher than when operating normally. A joule ringer must therefore be capable of supplying much more power to enable such a lamp to illuminate. However an LED does not require such a high starting current. It is the same as the running current. Hence the use of LED lamps in the project.
It would be interesting to see a third winding and rectifier bridge supplying the device.
Hola amigo .me gusto mucho tu proyecto.me harias el favor de decir de que calibre es el alambre de la
bobina primaria y la bobina secundaria.y cuantas vueltas la bobina secundaria.gracias
Hi man love your videos just made your super joule ringer 3.0! it works real good. I have 2 13w Philips mini decorative twister on a 25 foot cord one in the middle and one at the end. I fastened the 2n3055 to the side of the rod using a small terminal block and zip ties! right now I am using a 18v cordless drill battery! and this thing is sweet for camping!! Thanks a lot man keep up the videos!! can you do one the Steven Marks TPU
How much can you sell one such unit?
I would like to replicate one but don’t have the ability to buy online
First layer gauge # 28 as in design or #18 by voice in video please ?
Does someone have the formula for example: volts in = ferite core dimension, pimary gauge plus length plus windings, secondary gauge plus length plus windings = wattage over voltage
so that anyone could just plug numbers in to get a start value to a “theoretical” desired output. like a java script, keep plugging in numbers at any of the blanks and see results of the unfilled blank inputs.
I really enjoy watching what you do, lasersaber. I find it a little overwhelming, but I’m learning.
My questions are; I’m setting up a 250W solar panel to charge a 12V sealed lead acid bank through a MPPT Charge Controller. I need to get 240V to run standard lighting etc. I’d like to use the Super Joule Ringer instead of a regular 12V-240V inverter for reasons of efficiency.
1. Is this the right idea?
2. Can I follow the Super Joule Ringer 3.0 schematic for 12V to 240V?
3. Should the input to the Super Joule Ring come directly from the battery bank, or from the “load” connection on the MPPT Charge Controller?
I’d appreciate any help and advice… thanks!
remember the jr in the schematic is for 110v, so you will need to change the turns on the coils or go buy some usa bulbs like i did. I didn’t bother using the the load option on a charge controller rather just connected mine to the solar charged battery. I used 3 transistors in parallel and got it running a 10w led quiet happily with out over heating. If you just want an fast and easy setup with out trouble shooting and experimentation… just go buy an inverter. You could just get a 12v led bulb and directly connect it to a 12v battery, have used 110v led bulb by taking off the ballast and making it work on 12v battery.
I ATTEMPTED TO DUPLICATE THE CIRCUIT SHOWN WITH TEN LIGHTS AND HAD NO SUCCESS.
COULD YOU PLEASE SHOW AND EXPLAIN EXACTLY HOW THE CAPACITORS ARE CONNECTED TO EACH OTHER, AND THEN INTO THE CIRCUIT?
BTW, WHICH CAPS ARE YOU USING?
ARE THERE ANY DIODES? IF SO, WHICH ONES AND WHERE WERE THEY PLACED IN REFERENCE TO THE CAPS?
ALSO THE FERRITE CORE SHOWN IN THE VIDEO IS HOLLOW AND STACKED, BUT THE LINK GOES TO A SOLID ROD, SO….
WHAT SIZE TORRI, AND HOW MANY DID YOU USE?
HOW DID YOU KEEP THE TORRI STACK TOGETHER WHILE WINDING THE WIRE?
HOW MANY WINDINGS ON THE PRIMARY? THE SECONDARY (RED) AND SECONDARY (GREEN)?
A DIAGRAM WITH AN EXPLANATION OF HOW TO COMPLETE THE CIRCUIT WOULD HELP ME GREATLY.
THANKS A BUNCH.
P.S. I BUILT 5 SOLN1 OFF-THE-SHELF UNITS, (WORKING BEAUTIFULLY) FOR $301.27 EACH. BATTERY PACKS MADE IN CHINA. IF ANY ONE KNOWS WHERE TO GET THEM FROM A U.S. COMPANY FOR $90.00 + $35.00 SHIPPING EACH, PLEASE SHARE THAT INFO.
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