SOLN1 Version 3 – Solar made easy! by lasersaber | Jun 28, 2013 | Featured Projects, Solar | 130 comments Most current info on forum here: http://laserhacker.com/forum/index.php?board=2.0 SOLN1 V3 parts list: LiFePO4 Battery Pack $252.00 Solar Panel $69.87 RC Watt Meter Digital $29.99 Universal Rubber Bumpers, Pack of 4 $2.89 12V Black Switch - Pack of 5 $13.32 ABS Textured Plastic Sheet $7.25 150 Watt Power Inverter $21.18 Power Extension Cord 1 Foot $3.79 Nylon XT60 Connectors $3.19 130 Comments sigi on June 29, 2013 at 3:36 am why u take off the joule ringer? Reply lasersaber on July 2, 2013 at 1:24 am There is more enough space in the V3 unit for a Super Joule Ringer. The point on the V3 was to make it as easy as possible to build. A lot of people seem to have trouble building a SJR so I left it out on this design. Reply martin on July 21, 2013 at 10:15 pm please put the sjr3 back into it and also sell them to us built for $300 US for the large one. thanks. Reply Hydraulic4life on July 28, 2013 at 2:28 pm lol @ $300.00 bucks when the batteries alone cost $250….. I’ll pay you £500.00 GBP and £900.00 for 2? but you’d have to GB spec it – 240V 50-60hz aint sure about the rest of the tech data u’d need what about a pc tower 600W or the white appliances in the kitchen – can u make one to handle those items? Reply Nick Sin on November 1, 2013 at 2:55 am Hi Can I charge the battery using a AL 624 or something to that effect with AC? Reply sigi on July 2, 2013 at 2:05 am Hey the problem for the people is the ferrite or like core, if u make some video about air PVC cores, people will apreciate it or at least a mention to it. The SJR is more like a Tesla coil to me, what u think about it? Total thanks for your work! Reply lasersaber on July 2, 2013 at 11:43 am Yes, I think that you are right. I may even make a design around a 3D printed core. The SJR is basically another Tesla type device. Tesla was the father of so much of what we use today. Reply Sigi on July 2, 2013 at 3:04 pm Yes I say that because the name “joule ringer” is making reference to the Joule thief when in fact it is more like a Tesla coil. Im a big fan of Tesla, if u see the Tesla Coil u see the part that makes sparks, well some people have found that if u put the sparks on water u can get a very efficient hidrolisys system from where u can get fuel and produce heat and others uses… very interesting… all related with high voltage and high frecuency. In fact Tesla saids that when u enter that world u will extract energy from the aether (what we call today “ambient static electricity”) Reply Chris Jeffrey on July 2, 2013 at 3:59 pm do you have any issues with the battery being over charge , you did not use a charge controller for the battery. Reply lasersaber on July 2, 2013 at 4:11 pm The LiFePO4 battery pack has a built in PCM that keeps the 12.8V Battery from overcharging. Reply Jake on July 4, 2013 at 3:55 am I love this whole project, but due to the expense of the battery pack it would be awhile until I could build such a device. Could a more simple battery be used, maybe even large capacitors? I will continue following this until I build one controlled by a raspberry pi or something. Reply Johnathon on July 4, 2013 at 9:55 am I just happen to come across your video by accident today and I am amazed and intrigued. So much so that I want to tackle your DIY but I know absolutely nothing on this subject matter. Having said this, wear would I purchase the aluminum frame? Also what are it’s dimensions? Keep up the good fight and I hope this takes off like a wild fire! Reply chris jeffrey on July 4, 2013 at 12:00 pm Hi, the solar panel is sold with the frame. Reply JazzK on July 5, 2013 at 11:56 am Absolutely brilliant, what advice can you give to a novice like me on the diy part? Reply Vincent Ritola on July 5, 2013 at 12:15 pm Whats the specs on the Diode? What size is the fuze Thanks for the post, amazing design and great job on the construction! Reply maillot de foot 2013 on July 5, 2013 at 9:22 pm I much like the precious information you provide you with as part of your articles.I’ll bookmark your weblog and take a look at once again below continually.I’m quite guaranteed I’ll learn considerably of new things suitable here! Great luck to the next! Reply Chris Jeffrey on July 5, 2013 at 10:48 pm Can a hybrid capacitor bank be used to store the energy from the solar collector? Can you yield more storage vs the battery. The cost will be lower that’s one benefit. Please comment on this. Reply maillot de foot on July 7, 2013 at 11:41 am Hello would you mind stating which blog platform you’re working with? I’m planning to start my own blog soon but I’m having a tough time making a decision between BlogEngine/Wordpress/B2evolution and Drupal. The reason I ask is because your layout seems different then most blogs and I’m looking for something completely unique. P.S My apologies for being off-topic but I had to ask! Reply lasersaber on July 8, 2013 at 3:37 pm I am using WordPress. Reply RYMAR5489 on July 8, 2013 at 3:14 pm Goody Day, I live in a place in the U.S. where this would be ideal for us! We have something out here called a LEAC which is a tax that the local power authorities charge on the electric bill. To get an idea on how greatly this impacts us picture using $45.00 US in electricity consumption and getting charged almost $200-$400 more just to use your current. This means that we pay way more for LEAC than our actual consumption of energy. I have ordered all the supplies and have attempted to put my personal SolN1 together but have had no luck. Could you possibly help? I am using 18Gauge speaker wire from radio shack, and some thick solder. I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong with the wire itself or the solder but I have followed the instructional video exact. Also I had used a switch from Home Depot which I’m not too sure if it would make a difference but any insight and help would be GREATLY APPRECIATIVE!!!!!!!! Thank you for your hard work and devotion to making the world a more economic and safer place!!!! I look forward to the advice! =) THANKS IN ADVANCED! Reply Earl White on September 1, 2013 at 12:58 am I can probably walk you thru the soldering process if you have any questions. I am interested in building a solin1 myself too at some point. Reply John Nicholson on September 1, 2013 at 8:31 pm I googled LEAC to see what it was and found an article by Virgin Islands Water and Power Authority, so I am guessing there or Hawaii is were you live. I know Hi gets their power largely from diesel fueled generators, and seeing the “Levelized Energy Adjustment Clause” page rates (over $0.40 per kWh), I would not be surprised by how long it will take for everyone to exit the grid system for solar leaving the poor holding the bag. I think the “18 Gauge speaker wire from radio shack” is a bit small. (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge) It looks like a better size is 10 to 14 gauge. As for the switch, you did not state its rating, but if it is a 120V AC switch, it should not have an issue with 12 DC, but still needs to be checked for arcing. The real problem with what you state is the lack of information of what you have checked, tried, or know what the problem is. A lot of the stuff can be checked with a car or truck to see if it works because there 12V systems. Have you done that? Reply Imran on July 17, 2013 at 11:11 pm Its a good idea, but the only flaw will be the battery recharge time. I don’t think a 10W solar panel can charge these batteries in less than 10 hours on a sunny day. As you are using LifePO4 batteries which can last longer with 100% discharge rate, but still the minimum dc voltage requirement for Inverter is 11Volts. So LifePO4 batteries has no advantage in this case., it will make no difference in backup time. What I will suggest is to add a pin for battery charging by ac source, and add a voltage booster between batteries and inverter so you can utilize the batts to its maximum. 9V to 12V voltage boosters are easily available in market in small footprint. And you have lot of empty space available inside panel. Only with solar panel, these batteries will die after couple of months usage. Reply Imran on July 19, 2013 at 4:21 pm One another thing I noticed, is that there is no voltage controller for solar panel. As, I was looking to the specs of that solar panel, its output is 16V to 17 V, whereas, the batteries has an internal PCB controller, and it will never allow the batteries to charge from voltages higher than 14.6V (as this is safety feature of that battery controller). This means; the batteries because of internal safety controller, will never be charged due to solar panel high output voltages. Soln1 must need a charge controller for solar panel OR batteries without any internal protection circuit. As, I mentioned in my previous post, that LifePO4 batteries are not good option for Soln1 because of limitations, so a normal NIMH batteries will be the best option (without internal protection circuit) and it will reduce the overall price of Soln1 as well. Reply Magnus on August 7, 2013 at 11:57 am You dont seem to know anything about electrics when you made that comment. The batteries will be charged just fine and the charging will cut of by the internal battery electronics when the batteries are full. Try to connect a solar panel that output 17v to a 12v battery and measure the voltage between the solar panel and the battery and you will be enlightened 😉 Reply Imran on August 7, 2013 at 9:36 pm I know what you are saying, Solar is basically source for current. A 20Watt solar panel will take more than 4 days to completely recharge 20Ah batteries. and to recharge 20Ah deep discharged batteries it wont even give you the right amount of voltages as well. So for short interval of usage this setup is good but for longer time usage, there need to be an option for external battery recharge. Reply Christopher Jeffrey on July 19, 2013 at 4:51 pm The soln1 Can still keep the same battery either by adding a small voltage reg circuit or a charge cintroller . Reply Baldeagle on July 19, 2013 at 5:42 pm OMG this is amazing, I’m going to give this a go, thank you for being so generous with your knowledge. I’ve followed your links for parts but some don’t ship to NZ, so I’ll have to do a work around. In the process of searching I notice larger panels so the though occurred to me will the system work with a larger panels for instance 100 Watt? I’m a new bee so all this is new to me Reply John Nicholson on August 8, 2013 at 3:47 am Yes, on larger panels. I am building one with a pair of 60W panels. If you do use a pair of panels you must use a blocking diode on each panel as to keep the panels protected from each other and current flowing in one direction. Keep in mind that as the size of the panel gets larger the weight also gets larger. So, there is a size limit in the sense of what one is willing to carry. Reply Bob on July 20, 2013 at 5:08 am I didnt notice the rating and cost of the Diode you used in your parts list above (between the solar panel and the Battery Pack. Maybe I just missed it. Reply Becky on July 21, 2013 at 4:26 pm How long does it take to charge up, and how long does it last once charged. Thanks. 🙂 Reply John Nicholson on July 31, 2013 at 5:10 am Depends on usage (also know as the depth of discharge), panel wattage (20W), amount of sun light, battery size (20 Ah), charging voltage, age, and temperature. If you are just charging the SolN1 V3 from full controlled discharge and not using any of the power for other things (including waste heat for charging) I would expect to have to leave it in the sun for about ((13.8V-11V)(0.7*20 Ah))/((20W) = 2 hours for the battery to be charged. Taking into account the other things (by just doubling the time), I would expect it to be charged in 4 hours. But, I am building my first device. So, it would be nice to see some of the real charge time numbers by other owners. John Reply Magnus on August 7, 2013 at 12:04 pm 20w charging a 13v battery = 1,5Ah (P/U=I)(20/13=1,54) To output 20Ah it would take (20/1,54=13) So 13 hours to fully charge the battery will full sunshine all the time. So practical charge time would be 2 days. But also you would probably never deplete the battery completly with normal use… Reply John Nicholson on August 28, 2013 at 12:00 pm This video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RmeaA6vP1E agrees with you (see 00:57 to 1:30), but also shows that extra time needed to charge because of inefficiencies (16 hrs or about 23% longer). Because most places in the US average about 4 to 5 hrs of daylight 16 / 4 hrs makes it 3 to 4 days to charge. This is implying that a 20W panel is to small by a factor of 4. A 80W panel would charge a 20Ah battery in 4 hours. Reply Menno on July 23, 2013 at 12:43 pm how many ac volt’s is the output? Here in the netherlands we have ac 220 v does it effect the capacity of the solar unit? and by how much? Reply Imran on July 24, 2013 at 4:49 pm The one LaserSaber is using is 110V output inverter. You have to install a 220V output inverter instead of 110V. For the affect on capacity, the backup time depends on the load you are running. In other words, Battery backup depends on Current of your load. Let say, if you have an equipment of 100Watts power, then: if you are using 110V; P/V=I 100W/110V = 0.9Amps If you are using 220V; P/V= I 100W/220V = 0.4Amps So, I think with 220V Inverter, you will get more backup time. Please correct me if I am wrong.. Reply John Nicholson on July 26, 2013 at 9:50 pm A inverter which 12V to 220V usually cost more power than one which works with 12V to 110V. The current to draw a 100 Watt of power at 12V is going to be more than 8.33A. The reason is that all inverters are also power users and the energy cost of moving electrons to 220V is higher than that for 110V. Reply Magnus on August 7, 2013 at 12:07 pm You are wrong. You just calculated the amp draw on 110v resp 220v side. That does not say anything about the draw on the 12v side.. Using 110v or 220v the load will be the same on the battery… Reply John Nicholson on August 8, 2013 at 1:53 am Saying that I am wrong and proving that I am wrong are two different things. Reply Menno on August 18, 2013 at 3:59 pm Thanks for the reply’s . I guess ive started a good conversation about this subject ….From what i learned ….it’s the amp’s that matters the most …but there is something about the power usage of the invertor to. i guess the only way to find out is by building it myself…..my guess is that i need a bigger capacity on amp’s an hour ??? Reply John Nicholson on August 18, 2013 at 8:01 pm See my reply to izisrah below. But keep in mind also the size limit to what you are willing to carry. The larger the wattage of a solar panel the more it weighs. So, there is a weight limit to these portable devices. Reply Ad on August 9, 2013 at 11:49 am I live also in the Netherlands. It would be nice if Lasersaber helped us out with this discussion and tell us what we exactly need for our solarpanel. Thanks in advance Lasersaber Reply Erik on July 27, 2013 at 12:03 pm One thought while I was watching the build. With a battery like that having so much potential. A fuse within a few inches of the positive terminal will prevent risk of fire and reduce liability. Great project! Reply Erik on July 30, 2013 at 8:59 pm Never-mind. I see that the battery has short circuit protection built in. Clever! Reply izisrah on August 13, 2013 at 9:29 pm can i build one with the same parts except a bigger battery? Reply John Nicholson on August 18, 2013 at 6:57 pm Well, yes, but you might want to think about how long in the sun this device will have to sit in the sun to charge up. Using a panel 20W for a hour is 20 Wh. Now say that this device has a charge voltage of 14.6V. Doing the math 20Wh / 14.6V is about 1.33 Ah, so a 40Ah battery will take over 29 hours to charge. It is better to scale the battery to the panel size and assume about 4 to 5 hours of daylight at most. If the device is only used once a week (like say an electric lawn tractor), then you can assume 30 hours of daylight charging will happen. To scale the panel and battery, take the battery size in Ah multiply by the battery charging voltage and divide by the assumed daylight charging and you will get a number in Watts. This number is low because of inefficiencies, so divide by 0.8 to get a good panels size in Watts. Reply Tai Zen on September 9, 2013 at 1:52 pm Hey John, I’d like to build a 200 watt folding unit (100 watt/panel). What size battery do I need? Based on what you said, I figured: 20Wh/14.6v = 13.7Ah I get around 5 hrs of sunlight in Dallas, TX. 13.7Ah x 5 hrs = 68.5 Ah Did I figured it right? Can I use 2 of these Winston 3.2 v/40Ah batteries for $59.44 be enough? (first battery listed here:) http://www.ev-power.eu/index.php?stoken=24855AAD&force_sid=cgvsenrl5njmg603hs4e7i3n81&lang=1&cl=search&searchparam=winston&searchcnid= Are those Winston batteries the same as the pouch batteries LaserSaber recommends? They seem to give more bang for the buck. Those pouch batteries seem to be very expensive. Is there a difference between using those pouch batteries vs. using these Winston, CALB, Sinopoly, etc. LiFeYPO4 batteries? Also, how do you calculate what size charge controller and inverter to get for the 200w panel system? thanks for ur response. Reply John Nicholson on September 17, 2013 at 4:30 am Even with a 200 watt folding unit, you will need to charge the battery at 14.6V for the time needed to charge. So, a 200W panel can deliver in an hour 200Wh and for 5 sun-hours in Dallas 1 kWh. After the charge controller and batteries, you will see 200Wh / (14.6V *0.75) is about 10. Ah (the 0.75 is for the assumed lost energy in the charge controller, -0.10, and batteries,-0.15, can be more or less), so a 40Ah battery will about 4 hours to charge (if the system can take a it, and it should if built correctly). “Can I use 2 of these Winston 3.2 v/40Ah batteries for $59.44 be enough? ” Not if you want a 12V system. You have to have 4 in series in order to have between 11.2V and 14.6 V. “Is there a difference between using those pouch batteries vs. using these Winston, CALB, Sinopoly, etc. LiFeYPO4 batteries?” Well, yea that is why there are spec sheets. You might want to look at the dimensions for starters (will it fit?). The real problem is mass or weight. Right now, I have a pair of 60W panels for 120W without any of the electronics and it weighs a lot. I am guessing 20-25 Lbs. and I will have to carry it around to use it. Reply preston on August 25, 2013 at 1:23 pm is there any way to keep it going 24/7 with a UVB bulb? Just curious, please reply to this comment Reply John Nicholson on August 28, 2013 at 5:26 am That depends on the wattage of the bulb and anything else you want to run with it. Here is one which requires 26 watts: http://www.petguys.com/-015561221890.html?productid=-015561221890&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleShopping&utm_campaign=PetGuys . Here is the math with just that bulb: 26 W * 7 days = 4.368 kWh. Now, with a discharged battery voltage of 11.2 V, you will need 390 Ahr battery ( 390 Ahr*11.2 V = 4.368 kWh). I would suggest that the battery is about a 1/3 larger than that, so that makes 500 Ah battery a good size. So, you will need a battery much bigger than the one which is in the SolN1. It also will be less mobile. Now, keep in mind that a week without sunlight is rare in most location, but there are places which can go longer (polar regions or some rain forests). The point here is that you need to judge how many hours of power you really need as to not over size the solar device. Also, with 390 Ah, you need more solar panels, different charge controller, wires, and other things to charge the battery. Most places in the US and use 4 hours as the charge time in one day. So, a system which charges at 100 A would be charge the battery in less than 4 hours of sunlight. One may want to change the system voltage as to lower the amperage used, so the whole system is changed. Simply put, a 1.1 kW home system would work fine for this but would require that a truck to keep it mobile. Reply juris on September 1, 2013 at 11:17 pm a bay yor SOLN1 Version 3 – Solar made easy! or Version 2 Reply Baldeagle on September 3, 2013 at 9:12 pm Hi Laserhacker, Thought you might be interested in this. It didn’t take the Chinese long to copy your idea. Found this on ebay not sure about the lead acid battery though I would much prefer SOLN1 battery? Looks like a neat and tidy unit all the same, I like the 12v socket arrangement that could be hand for small 12v appliance like kettles and small heaters. http://www.ebay.com/itm/151113046795?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Keep up the good work I love what your doing. Regards Baldeagle Reply eplo on September 14, 2013 at 6:05 pm graphene batteries may be the answer as thin as a cd http://graphenebatteries.no/index.html Reply Phill on September 14, 2013 at 7:40 pm Does anyone know if the bigger SolN1 LaserSaber is building would be able to power a large refrigerator or freezer, long enough for them to cycle, say, if the power is off for a week or two? Reply John Nicholson on September 19, 2013 at 9:43 pm I could go though the math which shows that it can not power a “large refrigerator or freezer”. But, if you look at the power rating of a large refrigerator or freezer you will see that it is way more than what any part of the SolN1 system can handle (150W). The best way to handle a power outage like this is a off-grid solar system and battery bank. Even with a SunDanzer DCR50/DCF50 you will see that it would not work for that long of a period. Here is a system sizing file which shows how much battery Ah is need for a SunDanzer using Farenheit: http://sundanzer.com/wp-content/uploads/residential_system_sizing.pdf Another one in Celsius: http://sundanzer.com/wp-content/uploads/residential_system_sizing-degC.pdf I hope this will help. Reply Phill on September 23, 2013 at 5:00 pm Thank you, John. Great information! I’ve been trying to find a SOLN1 v. 3 with joule ringer and USB port for sale, but no luck so far. I would like to have one to power our wireless modem and laptop when the power goes out. Reply Imran on September 23, 2013 at 7:26 pm @Phill http://www.ebay.com/itm/LynxSoln-Solar-Portable-Unit-with-Joule-Ringer-/281150803768?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4175e4cf38 You can check my post on ebay. I am no more intrested in selling it because of lack of time, but you can get an idea from it. Reply Imran on September 23, 2013 at 7:22 pm http://www.ebay.com/itm/LynxSoln-Solar-Portable-Unit-with-Joule-Ringer-/281150803768?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4175e4cf38 You can check my post on ebay. I am no more intrested in selling it because of lack of time, but you can get an idea from it. Reply wade on September 24, 2013 at 4:40 pm will these batteries work? http://www.all-battery.com/3.2V40AhLiFePO4LithiumIronPhosphate-30217.aspx Reply John Nicholson on September 25, 2013 at 12:24 am http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=CA40FI Depends on what the space you have for them, and what you want to do with them. I know they will work with my SolN2 project, but I still have things to buy before hand. Reply Imran on September 24, 2013 at 6:10 pm Basic rule of thumb is to have a 12V battery bank with no more than 20Ah capacity. Remember, the solar panel produce aroun 17V output and amps depends on wattage of panel. The minimum voltages required for an inverter is 11V dc. And if you want to fit Joule ringer, then the best operating voltages for ringer is also 11V (my practical experiance) with 11V, the transistor dont get too hot and the output is also reasonable. With 3.2V 40ah battery you will have to buy 4 batteries to make 12.8V approx, so batteries can charge via panel and can run Inverter as well. And I dont think that there will be that much space in a panel to fit all four batteries of this much heavy capacity, unless you are going with 100W panel. Reply big daddy jay on September 30, 2013 at 6:06 pm where did you find the batteries that you used for your version 3? I have not been able to find any that have wire leads, please let me know. I am trying to make one and see the success and then I might be your west coast builder connection… Reply samrethy sok on November 6, 2013 at 9:21 pm HI, i would like to know if I have the soln1. Can,t I run the sjr with soln1 to save moore energy. Thank You Samrethy sok Reply RJ Pal on November 7, 2013 at 6:24 pm Can you use light bulbs that would charge the solar panels. Reply John Nicholson on November 10, 2013 at 12:27 am While it might seem like it would work, it does not because the amount of power used to charge the solar panel batteries is always more than the amount of power from the batteries used for the lights. And, so the power is depleted. Reply Mike on November 18, 2013 at 7:04 am Can the battery packed be replaced by a series of car batteries for those on a budget? I have a few laying around the house already. Reply Vey on November 26, 2013 at 3:44 am So, you have your 12.8 v battery set up, but how about going larger scale. You could technically hook up a step up transformer, increase your wire gages and battery size. You’d end up with a system that would enable you to control your home circuitry. Just a thought. Thanks for the video. I’m a second year electrical student and this has given me the basics I needed to make my own invention function for my third year project. Thanks and good luck with the future models 😀 Reply Karim on December 7, 2013 at 6:58 pm It’s the solar panel can be charged through the lights like acting as sun? Reply TJ on December 10, 2013 at 8:55 pm Does anyone know what size/style fuse he used between battery and the rest of the components? He shows one installed in the overview video but does not show it in the build video. I would like to build one of these but would want a fuse just in case. Thanks. Reply Gary Savage on December 14, 2013 at 3:06 am How much would it cost for you to build me one Reply John Nicholson on December 20, 2013 at 12:16 am The fuse “size” depends on the thing that are being protected. By this I mean that if a device say, charge controler, is rated at 10 A, or 180W for a 12V device then you will need 10 A fuse for the first device and a 15 amp fuse for the second one. Look at it as the fuse is cheaper than the device, but rate them the same as to make the fuse blow first. I will be soon buying fuses myself for my device. The local auto store have inline fuses which are good enough for the 12V part of the system for me. Reply John Nicholson on December 20, 2013 at 12:27 am Well, yes and no. Most lights are not bright enough to charge the panels like the sun. However, they do add a little bit of power to the batteries. In order to act as the sun, the lights have to shine about 1000W/m^2. Most lights shine in every direction and are rated something less than 100W. This means that you need more than 10 100W bulbs. Reply Igor on December 24, 2013 at 7:28 am Sorry, I do not know English, I use the electronic translator. So I do not know all the features of this device. How long can operate this device without external power supply? How much power (KW) can be connected to this unit? Thank you. Reply TJ on December 31, 2013 at 10:41 pm Hey John thanks for answering my question. Using all exact same components lasersaber did with this version 3 model I am still a tad confused on correct fuse size. Seems to me 10A inline fuse right off the battery would do it? The inverter he uses is listed as already having a 20A fuse within itself. So then that leaves the watt meter which can handle a supposed 60A. The switch he chose looks to be rated at 16A. Would love anyones thoughts as to what size they would put running off the battery using his exact setup. Thanks! HAPPY NEW YEAR !!! Reply John Nicholson on January 1, 2014 at 2:50 am TJ, If 10 A @ 12V is all the power that you need, then that does look good. I have not looked at the Wattage for every device, but with the three that you state, the lowest looks like a switch at 16A. If this is correct, then the 10 A, might be a bit low, and 15 A might be a better fit. Reply John Nicholson on January 12, 2014 at 4:34 pm lasersaber, I just recieve my batteries which was the last big item I needed in order to build this device. But, I realize that there is no description of the velcro that you use. I heard on another video of yours that you used “construction velcro” to work on the kids EV. Lowe’s has “White Universal Heavy-Duty Tape”, I take it this the same type that you used for the SolN1? I know that the velcro needs to handle both high and low temps as well as mosture, so I know that just regular velcro would not work well. If it is construction velcro where did you get it? Also, do you know how much weight you can lift with the velcro before that becomes an issue? I have 4 of these batteries: http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=CA40FI Each which weighs 3.3 lbs and they will be hanging upsidedown when the panel is in the sun. Is this OK? John Reply willy on February 12, 2014 at 2:45 pm what keep the battery from overcharging? Reply lasersaber on February 14, 2014 at 12:41 pm The PCM that is inside the battery pack see here: http://www.batteryspace.com/pcmprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat16alimited.aspx Reply Dennis Buckley on February 18, 2014 at 5:46 pm I would like to build several of these, both for TRADE with others and for sale for those that can pay the parts price and a small labor charge. Having a little bit of trouble gathering all the parts with the information I see. I am playing with the idea of jumping to a 40 watt panel for better battery recovery. I am simply a individual, not a company. Respectfully, Reply John Nicholson on March 4, 2014 at 2:09 am A 40W panel will recharge a 12V 26Ah battery, discharged half way, in about 4 hours. I used different parts than what LS suggested for my device and it works. You can do the same. If you have problems ask. And, I would suggest that you ask before you buy something and get it wrong. Reply Dennis Buckley on March 4, 2014 at 2:17 am I would like to send 3 of these to my wife’s family in the Philippines. I would want Jule Ringers in them. So far I have other major calls on my time. Anyone interested in building them reasonably ? Reply Genaro on July 26, 2016 at 3:41 pm SOLN1 Version 3 – could we use a larger inverter 800 w? Will it power a plasma TV? Thank You again Reply David M on March 5, 2014 at 5:45 am Dennis, I would do it for cost. For just the experience of doing it. Plus, I like your thinking. My wife is also a filipina and this would be a handy way for her fam to have some basic power. But do you realize how much it cost to ship this weight to the PI? Reply David on March 10, 2014 at 2:09 pm HOT DAMN! Now this is a cool project. I mean stelar! I stumbled upon your SOLN1 video and came over to your site to get the specs only to find the Version 3! Last time I played with electricity was building my own circuit boards in middle school. I think I might have a go at this one! Any chance you can give the specs on the diode & fuse you went with? THX again! Reply Dennis Buckley on March 10, 2014 at 5:20 pm I answer to your sennding : we are sending a shipping container of houshold stuff, weight is not a problem. ouote your cost price up to 5 units, jennifer has 4 sibs and one for us too. Pespects, Reply Maarten Horions on March 12, 2014 at 11:25 pm Hi, I’m thinking about starting to build some SOLN1’s here in Belgium. I need to know the measurements of your case as I will be using local parts that are easy available in Europe. I will share the configuration on your hub. And I’m also thinking about adding a cheap bike generator as an add-on. Thanks in advance! 🙂 Reply John Nicholson on March 14, 2014 at 8:32 am The “case” is the frame of the solar panel, so it depends on which panel type you choose. For the cheap bike generator add-on (BG), because you may have AC power from the BG, you need to have a bridge rectifier, voltage regulator, and caps or the same curcuit as a 120V AC to 12V regulated power supply after a tranformer. If you can make sure the BG does not generate AC you may simplify things a bit, but I would suggest that you test the BG first. Reply HJRR on March 18, 2014 at 10:41 am switch to 110-120V appliances. or go for 12V DC versions. Reply Pat on March 19, 2014 at 4:33 pm Great work Lasersaber and thank you for the sharing. I have been experimenting with your jr circuit and learnt quite a bit and with the crystal cells. My thoughts on the soln3 is the cost of the batt and I wonder if it is not tough enough for long term use.. I know lipos are temperamental and think nicads from my power drills may be a better option for me (they take a good thrashing and still recharge while fairly cheep to replace). So, I will try a solar controller connected to power tool batts and then connected to my jouleringer. I did try lipos and got them all puffed up quite soon but relized you can put a tiny warning buzzer thingy on them to tell you when they are approaching low charge and in danger of wrecking them. The nicads seem so much more friendly to keep running. Reply BigVolt on March 28, 2014 at 1:07 am The website says the Battery charges at 4 Amps (recommended) 4 Amps X 12V =48 Watts So really you need a 50 Watt panel to make this thing charge the quickest, using all the same components? Reply Tom on March 29, 2014 at 9:38 pm You mentioned buying the silicone wiring from hobby king. Do you have a link to the item or recommended gauge size? Thanks! Reply Robert on April 19, 2014 at 2:52 am I think that the SOLN1 idea is brilliant. I’m trying to come up with a solar kit for third world applications. Here is what I’ve used so far: https://www.flickr.com/photos/robertissaved/9513148980 A Goal Zero 13 watt 12v panel because its incredibly portable with a XP18000 LiPo Battery 18,000 mAh. (I have to use two to make 24v, because the battery is charged with 19.2v) My desire is to modify the SOLN1 plan with a smaller panel so that it can fit into a backpack, has anyone do this yet? Reply David Hollinger on May 2, 2014 at 10:26 pm Lasersaber, Big fan of your work, although I have not tried to replicate any of your projects for practical use until now. I would like your (or any helpful soul’s) assistance with my attempt at a SolN1. I do not want to buy a LiFePO4 battery pack for *ahem* budgetary reasons, so I need a cheaper alternative. Do you have any suggestions on what might work well with a SolN1 V.3 setup? Or perhaps I might be able to use a BoostPack/Joule Ringer combo…? Anyways, I hope you have time to answer and look forward to a response. Reply John on May 5, 2014 at 6:21 pm I don’t agree simply using the build in PCM for over charge protection. That is not the function of PCM. PCM is use as a “protection” device (like a resettable fuse). It is NOT design to be use continuously as an operation device. Once you damage the PCM, there is no protection anymore. This is NOT a supportable operation by batteryspace.com. Instead a proper solar controller should be use to support this setup! Reply Jose on May 19, 2014 at 12:51 am What is the complete total for parts to build a SOLN1 Ver. 3? just like your video.. Where do we go to pay for it and get it shipped? Questions: (1) How long does it normally take to fully charge (2) Will it allow me to fully charge a laptop? Cell Phone? Are there any issues I can expect? or need to be aware of? Reply Pieter on June 1, 2014 at 9:46 pm Is it possible to replace the batteriepack from this project and replace it or connect it to your boostpack from one of your other projects? Maybe you would have enough power to keep on working during the day. And even a while in the dark? Andere it would be cheaper ☺. Reply Kasper on July 13, 2014 at 10:41 am Chris, Yes, you can store the energy in capacitors, but you won’t get anywhere near the capacity of the battery. The Lithium battery can hold much more charge than supercaps. Reply KOMADORI on August 30, 2014 at 7:15 am Please check our quotation below. Item: 12.8v20ah lifepo4 battery pack Configuration: 4s1p by 3.2v20ah pouch cell PCM: Included Wire: 1 FT length, 18AWG Cycle life: 2000 times with 80% initial capacity remained @ 0.2C standard charger/discharge Dimension: ＜30*258*205mm Weight: Approx 2.25kg Price: $115.0/pc THIS QUOTE CAME FROM firstname.lastname@example.org Reply KOMADORI on August 30, 2014 at 9:06 am Hey Lasersaber, I am inspired. Thank you. I am pricing batt packs, and need to know what the continuous discharge current was in your 3rd build video? I am learning as I go, and don’t know how to get an accurate number for the manufacturer who will put my packs together. Thanks Reply KOMADORI on September 14, 2014 at 9:07 am I got so inspired that I ordered some panels. Unfortunately, they came without wires and diode. So, what gage wires should I use to connect to the panel contacts, and what diode should I use on the positive wire? I know just enough electrical to accidentally let the smoke out. I’d like to avoid that, so will you please help? Thank you for sharing your experiments,discoveries, and projects. You are my hero! panel label says: Spec ICO-SPC-20W Irradiance and 1000W/m^2 cell temp AM1.5 25DEG Pmax 20W Vpm 17.9V Ipm 1.14A Voc 22.41V Isc 1.23A Reply Tai Zen on September 25, 2014 at 5:10 pm Hey John/Lasersaber, The battery pack is the biggest obstacle to this project due to cost issues (in my opinion). I researched different lithium battery options and came across this video from a guy in california builing an electric samba van: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m90ibjcvR68&list=UUcMfCkN1juSa49DJFYltOTw I like his battery approach so I got a few hundred of the cells like he did. 1. The problem I have now is I need to figure out how many cells do i use per panel? 2. What is the formula to calculate how many cells I need to use vs. the size of the panels vs. the length of time I want the system to last? Can u include a diagram to properly solder them in series/parrallel? 3. The salvaged sanyo laptop cells have these specs: http://shop.battex.cz/pdf/1S1P-UR18650FM-K.pdf 4. When I recharge the cells, it measures 4.2 volts on my charger and multimeter. I’m not sure how many mAh they have because I don’t know how to measure the mAh. @Lasersaber – if you need some sample cells to test them and figure out how many cells are needed just email me and I’ll send u some to test out and figure it out for all of us. I believe these cells are probably the best alternative to the more expensive lipo cells that’s keeping a lot of people to build these units. thanks for the help guys. Tai Zen Reply Rich on October 12, 2014 at 9:04 pm How many of these solar panels would I need to power my entire home if they are mounted on my roof, so I do not have to deal with crooked, greedy electric companies. Also do you know of a website with instructions or video on how to connect it to my houses power/circuitts so I can use my houses original outlets? Thanks in advance. Reply Rich on October 12, 2014 at 9:07 pm I believe in earlier comments it was talking about using 10-12 gauge wires. Reply Roy on November 22, 2014 at 10:59 pm Hi, Love the soln1. Do you think it is possible to self energize the soln1 by adding a full lenght mirror to the front of the solar panel with a small gap with leds lights (between mirror and solar panel) reflecting enough light to self sustain the soln1 while providing power for different loads. Possibly using a reflective plastic sheet with tiny holes drilled in it to accept the led lights. Not sure how many or how efficient the leds would have be, just a thought for your great idea. let me know what you think. Reply Kasper on November 26, 2014 at 3:46 am Hello Roy, No, that is not possible for many reasons. Most deal with physycal laws. Reply KOMADORI on November 26, 2014 at 6:41 am Hey Roy, I like the fact that you are imaginative, creative, and thoughtful. Keep it up and you will hit on an idea that will work. Meanwhile, know this: I built 5 units @ $301.27 each. I attached a clamp lamp to the frame, with an led bulb, and plugged it into the unit’s outlet. I set the switches to on, placed the whole thing in a dark closet, and monitored the volts. After 2 weeks, the voltage has not decreased. Maybe it uses such a small amount of energy it hasn’t dropped yet, or maybe I stumbled on to something…. I’ll keep you updated in a couple of weeks or so. Reply KOMADORI on November 26, 2014 at 6:57 am 1. Keep the glue out of the switch. 2. If you failed to obey #1, pop out the rocker (that’s the moving part), pry out the rock hard glue, and assemble the switch. 3. On the inverter, BLUE IS NEGATIVE, BROWN IS POSITIVE. 4. Lastly…… DO NOT CROSS THE BATTERY’S WIRES! DO NOT CROSS THE BATTERY’S WIRES! DO NOT CROSS THE BATTERY’S WIRES! DO NOT CROSS THE BATTERY’S WIRES! DO NOT CROSS THE BATTERY’S WIRES! DO NOT CROSS THE BATTERY’S WIRES! DO NOT CROSS THE BATTERY’S WIRES! HAVE FUN! Reply John on November 26, 2014 at 8:23 am KOMADORI, What are the stats for your system, including the LEDs? This would give an idea of how long the system would be on. Note also what the low voltage before it turns off. Reply Roy on November 26, 2014 at 5:14 pm Sounds like your on to something. Is the Led buld your are using a fullspectrum. I guess that’s what’s needed for a solar panel to actually produce electricity. Interesting challenge for your soln1, perhaps if you included a reflective device it may work a bit better. Are you able to put an external load on it outside of the closet without draining the system. Is it possible to purchase a soln1 from you? Reply KOMADORI on November 27, 2014 at 8:00 am HEY JOHN, HEY ROY, HERE IS THE ADDRESS FOR THE SOLAR PANEL I USED. http://www.ebay.com/itm/271269751559?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT BE ADVISED these panels are flatter than the ones L.H. had (which I could not get a hold of) so the switch LS used fits, but the outlet did not. Oh, and check the post dated 14 Sep 2014. So, I went to a recycle store and got power cords from computers. The female end was cut off, and the cord was fed thru a hole in the edge. A grommet was used to protect the cord, which was wired to the 3 prong, 120v outlet from a local supplier. (It ain’t purdy, but it works!) THE batteries were bought thru Alibaba, using the copied info from laserhacker’s batts. Shop for the manufacturer you wish to use. The company I used misrepresented the delivery date, and refused to admit their mistake!!!!! KNOW THIS… Shipping will cost more than a battery… 5 units were $200 US to ship from China !!!!! The 2 prong clamp lamp I got from Goodwill, and the bulb came from my electric company’s energy conservation program. They gave out the LED’s I use all over my apt. This one resembles a soft serve ice cream cone with a flat top. There are no markings anywhere. It screws into any lamp. The other 4 units are being tested by friends who were willing to put them through their paces, and report the good, bad, and ugly, so they get first dibbs. What’s left I’ll sell, fair enough? Or better yet, I’ll make improvements and sell the better unit. So far, one friend attempted to dry his hair, even though I explained the wattage limit. The dryer worked…. like a good BBQ grill should….llooowww and ssslllloooooowwwww. So, if ya want heat, you’ll need MO POWAR! I’m checking every morning and evening. When it stops I’ll note everything and share. I want to add a joule ringer, but failed to get it to work. If anyone is able to help, lay it on me. Please start with SJR 3.0 w/caps, scroll down to the bottom, and tell me where I’m going astray. What else you wanna know? Reply Shannon Holderly on December 10, 2014 at 4:14 am Today while sitting in my booth at work i ran across the videos for soln1. Not to sound too geeky but….THIS EXCITES THE HELL OUTTA ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Im a low income individual not unlike many folks. and i have often wondered what i would do in some emergency situation. damned if this isnt the answer. The Joule Ringer is also another very useful item i seen through your videos. Im so siked over this that im near giddy. Im no builder or anything but learn fast and love putting things together that make a difference. The single issue im seeing is the battery aspect.more due to cost than anything. You have given me something to look at.possible projects for my son and i to work on together. Awesome stuff here….this should go absolutely viral. Reply Benoit on December 19, 2014 at 8:07 pm Hi In your device i don’t see any mppt regulator between panels and battery ? Don’t we need one ? Regards Reply KOMADORI on December 21, 2014 at 4:25 am HI Benoit, WHAT IS AN mppt regulator? I AM NEW TO THIS, AND AM UNFAMILIAR WITH SOME OF THE LINGO. Reply KOMADORI on December 21, 2014 at 4:35 am UPDATE: DUE TO AN ACCIDENT, I’VE BEEN IN THE HOSPITAL. SORRY, I DON’T KNOW WHEN THE LIGHT OUT. I DO KNOW THE TESTERS WERE HAPPY TO HAVE THE THEIR UNITS WHEN THE WIND STORM TOOK OUT THE POWER LINES EARLIER THIS MONTH. I WILL WORK ON THIS MORE AFTER RECOUPING. Reply Benoit on December 22, 2014 at 9:57 pm Hi This is a device to avoid overcharging and destroying the battery. Don’t we need one to avoid distroying the battery ? Regards Reply KOMADORI on December 23, 2014 at 11:28 am Benoit, THE MANUFACTURER OF THE BATTERY INCLUDED A BMS (BATTERY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM) IN EACH UNIT. AGAIN, I USED THE SPECS FROM THE BATTS LS USED. THOSE SPECS INCLUDED THE BMS. Reply Jerry Carter on December 26, 2014 at 9:08 pm Lasersaber, I love your DIY SOLN1 V3, and I want to build one or two for myself, I also think that I may want to build more to sell on my ebay. I ready to start and but your parts list looks to be incomplete. I have been following your work and believe u r on the right track. Your parts list has nine parts, please review, I added the small AC plug, but what about the fuse, is there anything else missing. Thanks for all your help, JAC Reply KOMADORI on December 27, 2014 at 1:31 pm Jerry Carter, WHEN I BUILT MINE, I USED JUST WHAT LS USED, EXCEPT FOR THE PLUG FOR REASONS STATED ABOVE. MINE WORK BEAUTIFULLY. NO FUSE NEEDED. ALL PARTS WORK TOGETHER JUST FINE WITH A 150 WATT INVERTER. KOMA DORI Reply 2B1 on December 27, 2014 at 7:48 pm Thanks for the info. Reply Triston on January 7, 2015 at 8:37 pm I have a problem with my Soln1. Whenever I turn on the Soln1, the voltage from the LiFe battery starts dropping abnormally fast, as much as 1volt per 15 seconds. Anyone else having this problem? Reply Triston on January 8, 2015 at 2:36 pm After researching I found it was an issue of parasitic battery draw like with car batteries. The problem is coming from the Power Inverter. Most likely I’ve stripped its wires wrong, I’m pretty sure that’s it. There is an area on both the brown and blue strips where wire is exposed. Reply Joseph Massimino on March 3, 2015 at 2:41 am The solar panel would not provide enough power to charge the batteries, so each day that you delete more power than you can return to the batteries while in full sunshine, means that the batteries will go dead, and not recover for a long time of non-use. I used two giant high efficiency panels and could not generate more than enough current to drive a muffin fan in direct Florida sunshine. if you pull more current than you can supply, you will draw the cells down. The battery pack was all you were demonstrating in your video. You could remove the solar panel and get near the same results. Reply Joseph Massimino on March 3, 2015 at 2:50 am If you needed 10 gauge wire to handle the current coming out of those batteries, the batteries would get so hot that they may cause a fire in the back of the solar panel. You certainly don’t need 10 gauge wire to charge the batteries , that panel would take days to fully charge those batteries with 5 times the solar panel he is using. I test two of Renogy’s big panels in direct Florida sun, and I was lucky to turn a 12v muffin fan. I could put my finger into the turning blade to stop i with no problem. The project is cute, but not practical, or functional for longer than it took to draw the batteries down. Reply Rev. Bob Liichow on March 11, 2015 at 8:12 pm Hello, I am working towards getting some solar kits to Uganda and I like the SOLN1 design. Are there other battery options that will fit into the back of a panel? These units would be used primarily to light home with LED’s, maybe charge a phone or Ipad, maybe run a small fan period. It is very sunny there and they batteries could be re-charged daily. So we’re talking minimum loads, maybe 4-5 hours per night 90% lightings. Thanks! Reply Raymundo on March 17, 2015 at 8:45 am Hi, I am replicating and testing these here in The Netherlands with a 220volt european inverter. If you are interested please contact me via mail. Thank you, Raymundo Reply Raymundo on March 17, 2015 at 9:04 am Hello Sir, With the sun shining daily for about 5 sun peak hours with give or take 1 hour extra of full charging. The batteries will be loaded @ 6 hours x 20 watt = 120 watt hour (average) day of charging. With 120 w/h you can have 3 x 3 watt led (+-300 Lumens) stay on for 10 hours (90 watt/h) and charge 4 phones everyday. Using the 256 Watt/H battery pack there will be a day reserves for a cloudy/rainy day. One panel can also be use for a economical DC refrigerator. Those work on about 30 watts. If Laserhacker doesn’t mind, I would like to help you further with use cases and solutions for your problems. Greetings, Raymundo greenmeresearch Reply Travis B. Moore on April 21, 2015 at 6:41 pm I read about mega capacitors having 1000 farads per gram. That is about 600mah per gram that is great. As a 100kg bank is 180 kwh at about 3v. Reply Travis B. Moore on April 21, 2015 at 6:42 pm 1000 farad is 600mah, and mega capacitors could be 1000 farads per gram. Reply Michael on May 11, 2015 at 12:48 am According to batterysecrets.com if you charge your 12v battery with a cut out voltage of 15.1 to 15.3 your lead acid battery can last indefinitely. Most charge chargers/solar charge controllers cut out at 14v which leaves just a small amount of sulfation on the lead plates. Over the years the sulfation builds and you either toss the battery or put it on a “Desulfator.” So if you fully desulfate your batteries everytime by charging them up to 15.1 to 15.3, your battery should last indefinitely. This info was found in some old Farmers books and then tested by these guys to be true. They also have special chargers for Lithium Iron phosphate batteries as well. Do you know of a way to up the voltage just a little bit on solar charge controllers? Reply Keith on August 12, 2016 at 12:49 am Heres something for you to ponder. I’ve build the two Soln1’s with good results and had a fantastic time doing it, but theres a new technology out now that is changing everything we understood about science and energy. Its called the Keshe MAGRAV and you can build it for roughly $10. It puts out 5Kw of power, enough to run a house. Here is a link to the schematic http://peswiki.com/os:alekz-magrav-power-system-from-the-keshe-foundation By the way there is a Keshe delegation heading to the White House this Sunday to present Mr Obama with a working unit. From there it is going to be taken to China and Russia and then the world. If Mr Obama doesn’t receive the delegation and tries to block the technology all blueprints will be launched on the internet within 24 hours. This new technology can’t be stopped its coming folks so get ready for a big shift in your reality. Everything changes from Sunday no more energy slavery. Reply Submit a Comment Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment characters available Name * Email * Website Time limit is exhausted. Please reload CAPTCHA. two + = 9 Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email.